Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
If you’re looking for a flower that bursts with color and releases a heavenly scent, hyacinths should be at the top of your list. Whether you want to grow them indoors or out in your garden, hyacinths are relatively easy to care for, making them ideal for beginners.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing the best types to planting, maintaining, and caring for your hyacinths.
Plant Type: Bulbous perennial
Size: 6-12 inches tall
Soil Type: Well-drained, fertile soil
Soil pH: Slightly acidic (6.0-6.5)
Bloom Time: Spring
Hardiness zones: 4-8
Native Area: Eastern Mediterranean region
Toxicity Level: Toxic to pets and humans if ingested
This is the most common hyacinth variety, known for its large, fragrant flower spikes in a variety of colors. It thrives in full sun and fast-draining soil, and the bulbs should be planted in autumn to grow hyacinth with beautiful spring blooms.
With looser, less dense flower clusters in white or pale pink, Roman hyacinths offer a more delicate aesthetic. Like other hyacinths, they prefer full sun and well-drained soil, and planting in autumn ensures spring flowering.
Although technically not a true hyacinth, these charming plants feature compact clusters of tiny, bell-shaped flowers resembling grapes. They are incredibly easy to grow and naturalize readily, making them a fantastic choice for low-maintenance ground cover. They thrive in full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil, with autumn planting for spring blooms.
Pick a location with well-draining soil and plenty of sunlight. If you’re planting outdoors, find a spot that gets at least 4-6 hours of sun each day. For indoor planting, choose a sunny window where the bulbs can get indirect sunlight.
For outdoor planting, dig holes about 6-8 inches deep. This ensures the bulbs are planted deep enough to develop strong roots and protect them from frost. If you’re planting in containers, make sure the pot is at least 6-8 inches deep to accommodate the bulbs and allow space for root growth.
Place each bulb in the hole with the pointy end facing up and the flat, rounded end facing down. Space the bulbs about 4-6 inches apart so they have enough room to grow. For a fuller look, plant them in groups of 3-5 bulbs, but make sure they’re not too crowded.
After planting the bulbs, give the soil a light watering. This helps settle the soil around the bulbs and kickstarts the rooting process. Be careful not to overwater, as hyacinth bulbs can deteriorate in soggy soil.
If you’re planting outdoors, cover the soil with a light layer of mulch, like straw or shredded leaves. Mulching helps protect the bulbs from harsh winter temperatures and keeps the soil moist but not waterlogged.
Sow the hyacinth seeds in seed trays filled with seed-starting compost. Place the trays in a cool location, ideally in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse, and keep the soil lightly moist. It’s important to know that hyacinth seeds need cold stratification, which means they need to experience a cold period to germinate, similar to how they would in nature.
Once the seedlings have sprouted and developed a few sets of leaves, they can be transplanted into individual pots or directly into the garden if it’s warm enough. Be sure to handle the seedlings carefully, as they’re delicate at this stage. Plant them in well-draining soil in a sunny spot, just like you would with bulbs.
Hyacinths prefer well-drained, loamy soil. If your garden soil tends to hold water or becomes compacted, consider mixing in some compost or sand to improve drainage. Hyacinths don’t like "wet feet" (sitting in soggy soil), as this can cause their bulbs to rot. A slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0-7.0) is ideal.
Use a lightweight potting mix or a special bulb compost. It’s important to choose a pot with good drainage, so the water can flow out and prevent the bulbs from sitting in water. If the soil stays too wet, your indoor hyacinths won’t thrive.
Outdoor: Water your hyacinths when the top inch of soil feels dry. Once established, they don’t need much watering, especially in the fall and winter. Too much water can cause bulb rot, so be cautious, especially during rainy seasons.
Indoor: Water the pots when the soil feels dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering as this can lead to soggy roots. Make sure excess water drains out of the pot.
Outdoor
Hyacinths are hardy and can withstand cold winters. In fact, they need cold temperatures to bloom in the spring. Ideally, outdoor hyacinths should experience winter temperatures between 35°F and 45°F (1°C to 7°C). However, once blooming in spring, they prefer cooler, more moderate temperatures, around 60-65°F (15-18°C).
Indoor
If you’re interested in how to grow hyacinth indoors, they require a period of chilling to simulate winter. For indoor forcing, place the bulbs in a cool, dark space (such as a refrigerator or garage) for 10-12 weeks at temperatures around 40°F (4°C). Once this period is over and you bring them indoors, keep them at a moderate room temperature of 60-70°F (15-21°C).
Outdoor
When planting outdoors, hyacinths do best in sunny, well-drained areas. Avoid planting in spots that get waterlogged, such as at the bottom of a slope or in low-lying areas. Raised beds or garden borders work well, and they look great when grouped together in clusters or rows.
Indoor
Indoors, the best location for growing hyacinths is a spot that gets plenty of indirect sunlight. They do well on windowsills, tables near windows, or anywhere that gets enough light without being too close to drafts or heating sources. Make sure the pot has good drainage, as sitting in water can harm the bulbs.
Fertilize your hyacinths in early spring, just as they’re beginning to sprout. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer (like a 10-10-10 blend) and sprinkle it around the base of the plants. Avoid getting fertilizer directly on the bulbs or leaves, as this can cause damage. Feeding them once a year is usually enough to promote healthy blooms.
For potted hyacinths, use a diluted liquid fertilizer when you see the first shoots appear. Feed them every two weeks until they start flowering. Once the flowers have bloomed, stop fertilizing.
After the flowers have bloomed and faded, cut back the flower stalks to the base of the plant. This keeps the plant looking tidy and prevents it from putting energy into seed production. However, leave the green leaves intact until they turn yellow and die back on their own. The leaves help the bulb store energy for next year’s blooms.
This process is crucial for protecting hyacinth bulbs during winter. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded leaves or bark, after the ground freezes in late fall or early winter. This helps insulate the bulbs and retain moisture. Remember to remove the mulch in early spring once the frost danger has passed, allowing the hyacinths to sprout and bloom.
If you’re growing hyacinths indoors, start with a pot that’s 6-8 inches deep and has good drainage holes. Plant the bulbs with their pointed ends up and cover them with soil, leaving the tips slightly exposed.
Indoor hyacinths grown in pots typically don’t need to be repotted for the same bloom cycle. However, if you want to reuse the bulbs next year, let the plant die back after it finishes flowering. Then, remove the bulbs from the pot, brush off excess soil, and store them in a cool, dry place until fall when you can replant them.
Hyacinths grown outdoors can usually handle winter on their own, especially in areas with cold winters. However, in regions with mild winters, you might need to dig up the bulbs after the leaves have died back and store them in a cool place (around 35-45°F) to mimic winter conditions. You can then replant them in the fall.
Indoor hyacinths need a chilling period to bloom. After the flowers have finished blooming, allow the plant to die back naturally. If you plan to force them to bloom again next year, you’ll need to store the bulbs in a cool, dark place (like a refrigerator) for about 10-12 weeks before replanting them.
These are tiny, soft-bodied insects that can gather on the leaves and stems of hyacinths. They suck sap from the plant, which can weaken it and cause stunted growth or yellowing leaves.
When bulbs are stored in damp conditions, these tiny pests can infest them. They can cause the bulbs to rot and prevent them from sprouting properly.
These can chew holes in the leaves and stems of hyacinths, especially in damp outdoor environments.
This fungal disease causes gray, fuzzy mold to appear on the flowers, leaves, and stems of hyacinths. It often develops in damp, overcrowded conditions.
A common issue caused by overly wet or poorly draining soil, this can cause the bulbs to become mushy and fail to sprout.
This is a fungal disease that affects hyacinth bulbs, causing them to turn yellow and soft. Plants may look weak and fail to bloom.
While hyacinths are not typically "harvested," their flowers can be cut for indoor arrangements. If you’re cutting flowers, leave some leaves intact so the bulb can store energy for the following year. Cut stems early in the morning when blooms are fresh and immediately place them in water.
A: For optimal growth, hyacinth bulbs should be planted in autumn. The best way to grow hyacinth flowers is to plant the bulbs about 6-8 weeks before the ground freezes. Hyacinth bulbs in autumn should be planted in fast-draining soil, and the depth depends on the size of the bulbs, generally 4-6 inches deep. Make sure to position the bulbs properly, with the pointed side facing up. Spring-blooming bulbs, like hyacinths, need a cold winter to develop properly, so planting them in fall ensures hyacinth blooms the following spring.
A: Yes. To learn how to grow hyacinths indoors, start by selecting prepared bulbs or pre-chilled bulbs. Plant your bulbs in pots or bulb vases filled with water, making sure to place the bulb just above the waterline. Growing indoors requires the bulbs to spend 10-12 weeks in a cold, dark place (around 40°F) before being moved to a sunny spot for blooming. Once hyacinths have finished blooming, you can discard the bulbs or plant them in the garden for future blooms.
A: Once hyacinths have finished blooming, cut off the flower stalks but leave the foliage intact to allow the plant to store energy for the next season. For outdoor hyacinths, allow the leaves to die back naturally before you dig up the bulbs if you plan to move them. If growing indoors, you can either discard the bulbs or store them in a cool, dry place until fall when they can be replanted. Be sure to handle the bulbs after the foliage dies back carefully, as bulbs are toxic. Propagating hyacinths can be done by planting offset bulbs, which form naturally from the main bulb.
