Plants That Attract Dragonflies: How to Use the Right Plant to Attract Dragonfly Visitors and Repel Mosquitoes

Frequently Asked Questions:
1. Will vinegar kill all weeds?
Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
2. Can DIY weed killers harm grass and plants?
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
3. Is homemade weed killer safe for pets?
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
4. How long does it take for natural weed killers to work?
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
5. Are these solutions permanent?
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Q: Can I grow a banana tree indoors?
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Q: Do banana plants grow from seeds?
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Q: How long does it take for bananas to fruit?
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Q: Do banana trees die after producing fruit?
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Q: Can bananas survive winter?
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
Q: How long does it take for sunflowers to bloom?
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
Q: What are the best sunflowers to grow?
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
Q: How do I plant sunflower seeds?
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
If you're tired of battling mosquitoes every time you step into your garden, there's a natural and beautiful solution you might not have considered—dragonflies. These elegant aerial hunters are more than just mesmerizing to watch; they’re also powerful mosquito predators. By planting the right greenery, you can invite dragonflies into your yard and create a more balanced, pest-resistant ecosystem. In this guide, we’ll explore how specific plants can help attract dragonfly visitors while naturally controlling mosquito populations, turning your outdoor space into a peaceful and bug-free haven.
10 Plants That Attract Dragonflies

1. Water Lily (Nymphaea spp.)
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Water lilies have long been revered for their floating elegance and essential role in aquatic ecosystems, making them a superb choice for attracting dragonflies. Their broad, glossy leaves—typically 6 to 12 inches across—spread gracefully across the pond's surface, creating shady alcoves ideal for dragonfly larvae and offering nearby perching spots for adults. The blooms, which range from snowy whites and soft pinks to bright yellows and purples, open each morning, adding stunning color to any water feature. Water lilies thrive in still or gently flowing ponds with plenty of sunlight—at least six hours daily—ideally planted 12 to 18 inches below the surface in heavy aquatic soils.
When caring for water lilies, gardeners should plant them in large submerged containers filled with pond-safe soil, ensuring always-consistent moisture. They appreciate full sun, warm temperatures from 65 to 85 °F, and high humidity around the water’s edge. Fertilize regularly—slow-release aquatic tablets every four to six weeks—and overwinter hardy varieties in the deep part of the pond. These elegant plants are perfect for homeowners looking to create a visually striking aquatic centerpiece that also supports wildlife. They’re particularly well-suited for those with existing ponds or structured water gardens and are happy to handle attentive maintenance.
- Soil: Heavy aquatic soil in containers
- Water: 12–18″ deep, consistent moisture
- Light: 6+ hours full sun
- Humidity: High around water
- Fertilizer: Slow-release aquatic tablets every 4–6 weeks
- Temperature: 65–85 °F (18–29 °C)
- USDA Zone: 4–11
2. Arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia)
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Arrowhead is a native aquatic perennial valued both for its ethereal white blooms and dense, arrow-shaped leaves that offer vital habitat for dragonfly larvae. Growing to about 3 to 4 feet tall, its lanceolate leaves—4 to 10 inches long—stand poised above the water’s surface, flanked in warmer months by delicate three-petaled white flowers. You’ll find arrowhead naturally inhabiting pond edges, marshy areas, and the fringes of streams, thriving in full sun to part shade with moist to shallow water conditions.
To tend arrowhead successfully, plant crowns just beneath the surface in loamy, nutrient-rich soil. Maintain consistent moisture and watch that water level remains just above the crown. It thrives in temperate environments (50–90 °F) with high humidity and benefits from monthly applications of balanced fertilizer during its active growing season. If you’re a gardener focused on supporting native species and wildlife, or restoring natural pond margins, arrowhead is ideal—it’s low-fuss yet supports biodiversity, making it a natural fit for conservation-minded and beginner gardeners alike.
- Soil: Rich loamy or silty
- Water: Shallow (1–6″ above crown)
- Light: Full sun to part shade
- Humidity: High
- Fertilizer: Monthly 10‑10‑10
- Temperature: 50–90 °F (10–32 °C)
- USDA Zone: 3–10
3. Pickerelweed (Pontederia cordata)
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Pickerelweed is a graceful emergent perennial adored by dragonflies for its tall, dense foliage that creates perfect perching and feeding platforms. At 2 to 3 feet tall, its glossy, heart-shaped leaves and vertical spikes of violet-blue tubular flowers bloom from summer into early fall. This plant naturally favors sunny pond margins, shallow wetlands, and rain garden environments where water remains about 1 to 6 inches above the soil.
When planting pickerelweed, choose a muddy, nutrient-rich substrate and position it where it receives full sun. Division every few years keeps clusters healthy, and removing spent flower spikes encourages new blooms. This plant thrives in temperatures ranging from 60 to 85 °F, high humidity, and benefits from aquatic plant tablets applied in spring and summer. Pickerelweed suits gardeners who want decorative, pollinator-friendly water edges without the need for frequent attention—an excellent option for low-maintenance but ecologically rich water features.
- Soil: Rich aquatic soil
- Water: 1–6″ depth
- Light: Full sun
- Humidity: High
- Fertilizer: Aquatic tablets in growing season
- Temperature: 60–85 °F (15–29 °C)
- USDA Zone: 3–10
4. Horsetail (Equisetum hyemale)
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Horsetail stands out with its striking vertical stems that mimic the reeds found in dragonfly habitats, providing essential lookout and launching pads for adult dragonflies. It forms tall, segmented, dark-green rushes up to 4 feet tall, creating architectural impact in any water garden. Known for its affinity for wet or boggy conditions, horsetail flourishes near pond edges or in containers with consistent moisture.
To cultivate horsetail, plant it in heavy clay-rich or loamy soil—ideally in a pot to keep its vigorous rhizomes contained. Keep the soil constantly moist, and feed monthly if conditions aren’t rich in nutrients. It tolerates full sun to light shade, temperatures between 40 and 85 °F, and moderate to high humidity. This plant is perfect for minimalistic or modern-styled gardens seeking vertical accents. However, it’s best for experienced gardeners who can manage its aggressive growth, especially when contained in pots to admire its sculptural presence without uncontrolled spread.
- Soil: Clay or loamy; container preferred
- Water: Constant moisture
- Light: Full sun to part shade
- Humidity: Moderate to high
- Fertilizer: Monthly if needed
- Temperature: 40–85 °F (4–29 °C)
- USDA Zone: 4–8
5. Joe‑Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum)
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Joe‑Pye Weed is an attention-grabbing, tall perennial whose clusters of pinkish-mauve flowers lure countless insects—making it a feeding hotspot that naturally attracts dragonflies. Towering at 5 to 8 feet, its green whorled foliage forms a structured backdrop in gardens, crowned by flat-topped flower heads from midsummer onward. You’ll discover it thriving in moist meadows, woodland edges, and rain gardens where nutrient-rich, well-drained soil and full sun to light shade prevail.
To grow Joe‑Pye Weed, ensure the soil remains evenly moist (but not waterlogged), water deeply during dry spells, and deadhead after flowering to prolong bloom. Divide clumps every few years to maintain plant vigor. It prospers in temperatures from 50 to 85 °F, moderate humidity, and responds well to monthly balanced fertilization. Ideal for pollinator gardens, naturalistic borders, or cottage-style landscapes, this plant is perfect for gardeners seeking dramatic height, ecological benefits, and minimal upkeep. Its tall stature also makes it a showstopper in wildlife-friendly landscapes.
- Soil: Moist, fertile loam
- Water: Weekly deep soak
- Light: Sun to part shade
- Humidity: Moderate
- Fertilizer: Monthly 10‑10‑10
- Temperature: 50–85 °F (10–29 °C)
- USDA Zone: 4–9
6. Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
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Swamp Milkweed is a fragrant and vibrant choice that attracts dragonflies indirectly by supporting diverse insect prey like aphids and gnats. Standing 3 to 5 feet tall, its upright stems are adorned with lance-shaped leaves and clusters of fragrant, rosy-pink star-shaped flowers that bloom mid to late summer. You’ll often find Swamp Milkweed thriving in moist or even shallowly flooded soils within rain gardens, wet meadows, and at pond edges.
To care for Swamp Milkweed, plant it in full sun, keep the soil consistently moist, and cut back spent stems after flowering to encourage new growth. It adapts well to temperatures between 50 and 85 °F, moderate to high humidity, and appreciates light feeding during its growing season. Enthusiastic gardeners aiming to support both dragonflies and pollinators—especially butterfly lovers—will appreciate Swamp Milkweed’s dual ecological benefit. It’s a workhorse performer that fits beautifully into native gardens and moist-site plantings.
- Soil: Wet, well-drained loam
- Water: Weekly or constant in flooding zones
- Light: Full sun
- Humidity: Moderate to high
- Fertilizer: Light summer feed
- Temperature: 50–85 °F (10–29 °C)
- USDA Zone: 3–9
7. Blue Flag Iris (Iris versicolor)
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Blue Flag Iris adds splendid beauty to pond edges with its sword-like foliage and enchanting cobalt blue blooms, all while attracting dragonflies through both habitat and prey. Reaching around 3 feet in height, its long, blade-shaped leaves and elegant flowers bloom in late spring to early summer. As a native wetland plant, Blue Flag Iris naturally thrives in damp soil or shallow water, preferring full sun to partial shade and nutrient-rich, moisture-retentive conditions.
To keep it healthy, plant its rhizomes at soil level in a lined pond or wet border, space densely, and divide every three to four years. Remove old leaves in fall to maintain tidiness. It’s hardy in temperatures from 40 to 85 °F with moderate humidity and benefits from a spring application of balanced fertilizer. This iris is ideal for gardeners who want both ornamental flair and ecological function in water-edge landscapes. Those designing structured, wildlife-friendly ponds will especially appreciate its dual role.
- Soil: Moist loam, nutrient-rich
- Water: Constant moisture or shallow water
- Light: Full sun to part shade
- Humidity: Moderate
- Fertilizer: Balanced feed in spring
- Temperature: 40–85 °F (4–29 °C)
- USDA Zone: 3–9
8. Wild Celery (Vallisneria americana)
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Link: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Vallisneria_americana_UMFS_1.JPG
Wild Celery, known as tape grass, is vital for nurturing dragonfly larvae by offering underwater foliage they can cling to. Its grass-like bright green leaves—12 to 24 inches long—form cascading underwater colonies, oxygenating ponds and fostering a healthy aquatic ecosystem. It naturally inhabits deeper regions of still-water bodies, requiring full sun and stable conditions between 2 and 6 feet of depth.
To cultivate Wild Celery, transplant runners or individual crowns into a nutrient-rich pond bottom substrate and avoid overfeeding to prevent algae overgrowth. Ensure underwater light penetration and healthy bacterium balance. Thriving between 60 and 85 °F with high humidity, it benefits from specialized aquatic root tablets. Well-suited for wildlife-focused garden ponds, filtration systems, or naturalistic water habitats, it’s a hands-off choice for advanced gardeners aiming to support larvae and ecosystem health.
- Soil: Pond mud, rich in organics
- Water: 2–6′ depth
- Light: Full sun
- Humidity: Very high (submerged)
- Fertilizer: Aquatic root tabs
- Temperature: 60–85 °F (15–29 °C)
- USDA Zone: 5–10
9. Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris)
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Marsh Marigold offers early-season blooms and bright yellow flowers that attract the first wave of flying insects—precious prey for emerging dragonflies. Growing in 6 to 12-inch clumps, its round, glossy leaves and 1- to 2-inch buttercup-like yellow flowers bloom in spring. You’ll spot this plant thriving along boggy margins, marshes, and shallow water carpets in full sun to light shade.
For successful growth, plant Marsh Marigold in consistently moist or shallowly flooded soil enriched with compost. After blooming, cut back spent foliage to prevent self-seeding, and consider dividing every few years to refresh clumps. It grows well in temperatures from 40 to 75 °F with high humidity and thrives with early-season compost applications. It’s perfect for gardeners wanting a splash of early color and ecosystem value in spring pondscapes or wetland gardens. Novice and experienced alike will find its cheerful blooms and low-care nature appealing.
- Soil: Rich, wet loam
- Water: Surface moisture or shallow water
- Light: Full sun to part shade
- Humidity: High
- Fertilizer: Compost in early spring
- Temperature: 40–75 °F (4–24 °C)
- USDA Zone: 3–7
10. Cattails (Typha latifolia)
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Cattails are classic wetland giants known for supporting dragonflies throughout their life cycle. Their towering height—up to 10 feet—and dense foliage create a complex habitat that shelters larvae and offers ideal hunting perches. The signature brown cylindrical seed heads bloom in summer, punctuating expansive stands that thrive in nutrient-rich shallow water up to 2 feet deep and full sun.
To grow cattails, plant rhizome sections in the pond sediment at a shallow water depth and divide every few years to avoid overgrowth. Clean out dead foliage in early spring to encourage healthy regrowth. They’re resilient in temperatures from 32 to 90 °F with high humidity, needing no fertilizer in rich substrate. If you have a large natural pond or wetland area, cattails are a transformative addition—great for wildlife gardeners or wetland restorations. Those seeking ecological structure and wildlife habitat will appreciate their dramatic form and resilience.
- Soil: Rich, mucky sediment
- Water: 0–24″ depth
- Light: Full sun
- Humidity: High
- Fertilizer: Not needed in rich soils
- Temperature: 32–90 °F (0–32 °C)
- USDA Zone: 3–11
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do I need a big pond for dragonflies?
A: No—small container ponds with a few aquatic plants can still attract dragonflies and support larvae development, saving space while achieving great results.
Q: Will these plants eliminate all mosquitoes?
A: While no single solution fully removes mosquitoes, combining dragonfly habitat with standing water management and these plants can significantly reduce mosquito populations.
Q: Are these plants all native?
A: Most—like swamp milkweed, arrowhead, and blue flag iris—are native and ecosystem-friendly. Always check local rules, especially before planting aggressive species like cattails.