Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
The sunflower is one of the most iconic garden plants, known for its golden petals and ability to follow the sun throughout the day. If you’ve ever wondered how to grow sunflowers in your backyard or even in containers, the process is simpler than you think. By learning the basics of sunflower planting, from choosing the right soil to giving them enough sunlight, you can enjoy tall, vibrant blooms all season long. Whether your goal is to plant sunflowers for beauty, to attract pollinators, or to harvest seeds, this guide will help you grow sunflowers successfully step by step.
There are many sunflower varieties, ranging from compact plants for pots to towering giants for open fields. Some of the best include:
The Traditional Giant Sunflower is the classic variety that can grow 12–15 feet tall with thick stems and massive flower heads up to 24 inches across. Packed with seeds, they’re great for roasting or leaving for birds, and their height makes them a natural privacy screen or striking garden backdrop. They thrive in full sun, rich soil, and need steady watering. Since they’re top-heavy, staking helps protect them from strong winds. If you want the iconic sunflower look with plenty of seeds to harvest, this is the variety to grow.
Compact and easy to manage, dwarf sunflowers like Sunspot and Teddy Bear grow just 1–3 feet tall, making them perfect for containers, borders, or small gardens. Despite their size, they produce bold blooms, Sunspot with large golden flowers and Teddy Bear with fluffy pom-pom-like petals. These sturdy plants resist wind damage and don’t need staking, thriving in well-draining soil with lots of sunlight. Dwarf sunflowers are ideal for gardeners who want cheerful blooms in limited spaces.
Multi-branching sunflowers reach 5–8 feet tall and produce many medium-sized blooms instead of one giant head, ensuring longer flowering. Varieties like Autumn Beauty bring warm shades of yellow, orange, and burgundy, while Lemon Queen adds soft yellow blooms that attract pollinators. These sunflowers are excellent for cut flowers and continuous garden color. Give them space to branch fully and deadhead spent blooms to encourage new ones. If you want vibrant, pollinator-friendly plants with lots of flowers, this type is the best choice.
Sunflowers thrive in well-drained soil that is enriched with organic matter such as compost or aged manure. They prefer loamy soil but can adapt to sandy or slightly clay-heavy conditions as long as drainage is good. Avoid planting in overly waterlogged or compacted ground, as this can lead to root rot. Ideally, soil should be slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.0-7.5) for optimal nutrient uptake. Mixing in slow-release fertilizer or compost before planting encourages strong stem growth and vibrant blooms.
Although sunflowers are known to be drought-tolerant once established, they perform best when given consistent deep watering. During germination and early growth, the soil should be kept evenly moist but not soggy. Once the plants mature, water them once or twice a week, ensuring the water penetrates 6–8 inches deep to encourage a robust root system. During flowering and seed production, steady watering is crucial: dry soil at this stage may result in smaller blooms and fewer seeds. Water at the base to avoid wetting the leaves, which can invite fungal issues.
Sunflowers grow best in warm climates with daytime temperatures between 70-78°F (21-26°C). They can tolerate higher heat levels, even above 85°F (29°C), as long as they have adequate moisture. However, they dislike cold conditions and are very sensitive to frost. Seeds won’t germinate well in soil temperatures below 50°F (10°C). Moderate humidity is ideal; too much humidity combined with poor air circulation can increase the risk of fungal diseases such as mildew or rust.
As their name suggests, sunflowers need full sun exposure, requiring at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily to grow tall and produce large, healthy flower heads. The more sunlight they receive, the better they bloom. Tall sunflower varieties should be planted in a sheltered spot protected from strong winds, since their large heads and height make them prone to tipping over. Planting against a fence or wall or staking tall varieties can provide extra stability. Sunflowers also tend to track the sun (heliotropism) during their growth phase, so choose a location with wide, unobstructed access to light.
Sunflowers are heavy feeders and thrive when given the right nutrients at the right time. Start with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as 10-10-10 (NPK) during early growth to promote sturdy stems and lush green leaves. Apply it once the seedlings are about 6 inches tall, and repeat every 3–4 weeks if needed. As the plants approach the budding stage, switch to a phosphorus-rich fertilizer (like 5-10-10 or 4-8-4). Phosphorus encourages stronger root systems and larger, more vibrant blooms. Be careful not to over-apply nitrogen, as too much will result in tall, leafy plants with fewer flowers. Always water the soil after fertilizing to help nutrients absorb efficiently.
Pruning methods depend on the type of sunflower you’re growing. For single-stem giant sunflowers, pinch off side shoots or “suckers” when the plant is young so that it channels all of its energy into producing one massive flower head. For branching sunflower varieties, regularly remove spent blooms (deadheading) to encourage the plant to keep producing new flowers rather than going to seed. This not only extends the blooming season but also keeps the plant looking tidy. Additionally, remove any damaged, yellowing, or diseased leaves to improve air circulation, reduce pest issues, and direct the plant’s energy toward healthy growth.
Mulching is essential for maintaining healthy sunflower beds. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch such as shredded bark, straw, grass clippings, or compost around the base of the plants once they’re about 6–8 inches tall. Mulch helps the soil retain moisture, regulates soil temperature during hot summer days, and prevents weeds from competing with your sunflowers for nutrients. Be sure to keep mulch 2-3 inches away from the main stem to prevent excess moisture from causing stem rot. As the mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil, giving your sunflowers an extra nutrient boost.
If you’re growing dwarf sunflowers in containers, select pots that are at least 12-16 inches deep and wide, as these varieties still need enough room for their strong taproots. Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter. Ensure that your pot has drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. Check the root system every few weeks. If you see roots circling the bottom or poking out of drainage holes, it’s time to repot. Move the plant into a larger container and refresh the soil with new potting mix to encourage continued growth. For taller potted sunflowers, add stakes or a small trellis for support as the stems grow heavier.
Sunflowers are annual plants, meaning they complete their life cycle within a single growing season. They germinate, grow, flower, and produce seeds all in the same year before dying back. Since they don’t survive winter, the best way to preserve your crop is by harvesting seeds. Wait until the back of the flower head turns brown and the seeds are plump with black-and-white stripes (for most varieties). Cut the heads and allow them to dry completely in a cool, dry area before storing seeds in an airtight container. The seeds can be roasted for snacks, saved for planting next year, or shared with birds. Once harvesting is complete, remove the spent stalks and compost them to recycle nutrients back into your garden soil.
These animals are attracted to sunflower seeds, often damaging developing seed heads before they fully ripen. To protect your plants, cover the heads with mesh bags, bird netting, or lightweight row covers. Harvesting seeds promptly once mature also reduces losses.
Tiny sap-sucking insects that cluster on stems, leaves, and buds, causing curling or yellowing foliage. They can also spread plant viruses. Control them by spraying with insecticidal soap, applying neem oil, or simply hosing them off with a strong stream of water. Introducing beneficial insects like ladybugs also helps keep aphid populations in check.
Both can chew through leaves and flower petals, weakening the plant and reducing its overall beauty and vigor. The sunflower moth caterpillar, in particular, tunnels into seed heads. Hand-pick them when numbers are low, or use organic sprays such as Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) for caterpillars. For beetles, floating row covers early in the season may help prevent infestations.
This fungal disease appears as a white, powdery coating on leaves, especially in warm, dry conditions with poor air circulation. It weakens plants by reducing photosynthesis. Prevent it by spacing plants properly, ensuring good airflow, and watering at the base rather than overhead. Treat severe cases with sulfur-based fungicides or other general garden fungicides labeled for powdery mildew.
Downy mildew shows as yellow patches on leaves with gray, fuzzy mold on the undersides, while rust appears as reddish-brown pustules on foliage. Both spread rapidly in damp, humid conditions. Remove and destroy affected leaves promptly to slow disease spread. Avoid overhead watering, water early in the day to allow leaves to dry, and rotate crops each season. In persistent cases, copper-based fungicides can provide some control.
Harvesting sunflower seeds is best done when the back of the flower head turns from yellow to brown, and the seeds appear plump, firm, and mature. To harvest, cut the head off the plant, leaving about 12 inches of stem attached, and hang it upside down in a dry, airy place. Once the head has dried, rub it to remove the seeds. These seeds can be roasted for eating, saved for replanting, or pressed into sunflower oil. Alternatively, you can leave the seed heads outdoors to serve as natural bird feeders.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
