Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
Let’s talk about a plant that doesn’t ask much but gives you *everything—*Ice plant. This resilient succulent is perfect for eco-conscious gardeners and anyone battling dry spells, poor soil, or relentless sun. With vibrant daisy-like blooms and a knack for thriving in tough conditions, ice plants make gardening feel a lot less like work and a lot more like magic.
Discover resilient container plants that thrive in dry conditions—perfect for low-maintenance gardening!
First off—no, they’re not icy. Or cold. Or frozen. The name "Ice plant" comes from the shimmery, crystalline texture of their foliage, which looks like it’s been lightly frosted. It’s honestly kind of mesmerizing up close.
Ice plants belong to the succulent family, which means they store water in their leaves and can handle dry spells like champs. That’s a big win for folks who forget to water or live somewhere the rain isn’t always reliable.
This is the classic go-to for a reason. Expect bright magenta blooms that practically glow in the sun. It spreads like a dream and can quickly form a dense, colorful carpet over dry, rocky patches. Super low-fuss and one of the most reliable bloomers from late spring through fall.
This one's perfect if you're dealing with colder winters as it can survive down to USDA Zone 5, which is kind of a big deal for a succulent. The bright yellow flowers are sunny and cheerful, and the foliage stays close to the ground in a tight mat, making it excellent for erosion control or squeezing between stepping stones. Bonus: the foliage often turns reddish-bronze in fall, adding even more seasonal interest.
Okay, this one’s pure drama—in the best way. Each flower is a stunning blend of fiery orange, ruby red, and bright white all packed into one dazzling bloom. The petals are thin and spiky like a firework frozen mid-explosion. It’s compact, super eye-catching, and looks amazing in rock gardens or as a ground-hugging border along pathways.
Add a splash of sunshine to your outdoor space with creative sunflower planting ideas and vibrant design tips.
The best time to plant ice plants is spring or early summer, once the soil is warm and there’s no more danger of frost.
Give them a sunny spot with at least 6 hours of direct sun a day. Ice plants adore heat and hate soggy feet, so avoid areas that stay wet after rain.
Ice plants are happiest outdoors, but in colder climates, you can grow them in pots and bring them indoors during winter months near a bright window.
Whether you're going the DIY-from-seed route or grabbing some ready-to-go seedlings from your local nursery, ice plants are one of the easiest plants to get started with. Seriously, even if you're a beginner gardener, you’re gonna do just fine.
Now let’s talk about ice plant care and what they need once they’re in the ground (or pot):
If you take nothing else from this guide, remember this: ice plants LOVE the sun. We’re talking full, unfiltered, blazing sunshine for at least 6 hours a day, ideally more. In cooler zones, a south-facing wall or spot near concrete can help reflect even more warmth and light back onto the plant.
Ice plants need fast-draining soil. Sandy, gravelly, or cactus mix works best. If your soil is on the heavy side, mix in some coarse sand or fine gravel to lighten it up.
Quick test: Water your plant and see how fast it drains. If the water pools or takes longer than a minute to soak in, it’s time to amend that soil.
When they’re newly planted, give them a bit of regular water to help roots settle. After that? Forget about it. Seriously, ice plants like to dry out between waterings. Only water sparingly or when the soil is completely dry, like “crusty desert” dry. Overwatering is a big no!
One of the coolest things about hardy ice plants is their range. Depending on the variety, some are desert heat-lovers, while others can chill through snow like it’s no big deal.
These little guys aren’t picky about being pampered, they just want a spot that mimics their native, rugged terrain. So, you can plant them on rock gardens, slopes, and hillsides where water runs off easily. They’re also great for softening the edges of retaining walls or garden borders with their trailing blooms and they are pros at filling awkward spaces.
One of the reasons I recommend ice plants to friends is because you can basically ignore them, and they’ll still look fabulous. But here’s how to make them truly thrive:
Ice plants start growing actively in late spring and bloom through summer, this is their time to shine. To give them a boost, feed them once at the start of the growing season with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. That one springtime snack is usually all they need to bloom their hearts out all season long.
Ice plant requires no pruning or deadheading, but if your plant starts to look a little wild or scraggly mid-season, feel free to give it a trim. Cutting it back in late summer can freshen it up and even encourage more compact, tidy growth.
Mulch isn’t a must, but in colder zones, a light layer of gravel mulch helps protect the roots and keeps excess moisture away, which is perfect for preventing rot. Plus, it looks really nice in xeriscape beds.
Always use a pot with a drainage hole and a fast-draining mix like cactus soil. If the plant starts outgrowing its container or the soil looks tired and compacted, give it a fresh home every 2–3 years. Spring is the best time to repot..
If you’re in Zone 6 or colder, bring non-hardy varieties indoors before frost hits. Set them near a sunny window and water sparingly—just enough to keep them from totally drying out while they nap through winter. Some types, like D. cooperi or D. nubigenum, are cold-hardy down to Zone 5 and can survive snowy winters if planted in well-draining soil.
Ice plants are pretty tough, but every now and then, something might try to mess with them.
A: Yep! In mild climates, most ice plants stay evergreen year-round, keeping their dense, mat-like foliage even when they’re not in bloom. In colder zones, the plant's leaves and stems may die back a bit, but hardy types usually bounce back in spring.
A: Absolutely—they come in a whole rainbow, but pink is one of the most common and vibrant shades you’ll see. Some varieties even have neon-magenta blooms that practically glow in the sun.
A: Yes, and it’s super easy! Just snip a healthy stem, let the cut end dry out for a day or two, then stick it in well-draining soil. Keep it lightly moist until roots form, and you’ve got a brand-new plant—no fancy tools required.
