Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
There’s something truly special about receiving flowers that carry deep meaning, and for me, forget-me-nots will always hold a special place in my heart. I first saw them in my friend's wedding, and I’ve wanted to grow my own ever since. What really drew me in, though, was learning about their history—an old German legend about a knight who, after picking the blue flowers, fell into a river and drowned. As he was swept away, he called out to his lady, asking her not to forget him.
And that’s how it got its name! So, if you want to bring a symbol of remembrance and enduring love into your garden, here’s how to grow your very own forget-me-nots!
This flower come in a few different varieties, and here are the most common ones you'll likely see:
Myosotis sylvatica: This is the classic blue forget-me-not. It’s known for its bright blue flowers and is often used in wildflower gardens or containers. If you want that typical "forget-me-not" look, this is the one you'll find most often. It’s easy to grow and works great in many garden setups.
Myosotis alpestris: This type is often called the alpine forget-me-not. It has small, sky-blue flowers and does really well in cooler climates. It's great for hanging baskets or alpine gardens, but it can also be a good option for containers. It’s just a bit smaller than the classic variety, but still just as charming.
Myosotis asiatica: This hybrid forget-me-not has slightly pinkish-blue flowers, making it a little different from the rest. It’s perfect for containers and can also work well as ground cover. This variety is a good choice if you want to add a little mix of color to your garden or balcony.
Forget-me-nots love cooler weather, so the best time to plant them is in early spring or late winter (if you're growing them indoors). You can plant them outside after the danger of frost has passed or start them in pots indoors to get a jump on the growing season.
Indoor planting
Start your seeds indoors about 6-8 weeks before your area's last frost date. You can transplant them outside once the weather warms up.
Outdoor planting
Directly sow the seeds into your pots or garden after the frost has passed, making sure they’re in a location with partial shade to full sun.
Alright, now that we’re talking about planting, let’s dive into the next section so you’ll know exactly how to do it step by step.
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It’s time for the exciting part—getting those adorable forget-me-nots growing! Don’t worry, this guide is super beginner-friendly, so even if you’ve never planted anything before, you’ll be just fine. Let's break it down step by step.
First things first, you need a few essentials to get started. Here’s what you’ll need:
Pick pots that are 6 to 8 inches wide. This gives the plants enough room to spread out a bit as they grow. Make sure your pots have good drainage holes at the bottom because forget-me-nots hate sitting in waterlogged soil.
Fill your pots with the well-draining potting mix but leave about an inch of space at the top. This makes watering easier and prevents the soil from spilling over the sides when you water.
Here’s where the fun begins!
The seeds are delicate, so you want to water them carefully.
Forget-me-nots prefer cooler temperatures for germination. Keep the temperature around 55-65°F (13-18°C).
Now, here comes the waiting game. Germination can take anywhere from 7 to 14 days, so don’t panic if nothing happens right away.
During this time:
Once you see those little green sprouts popping up, you’re on your way! Keep things cool, give them enough light, and stay consistent with your watering. They’ll keep growing as long as you stick to these simple steps.
Once your forget-me-nots have sprouted and started growing, it’s time to keep them happy and healthy.
Use slightly acidic loamy soil, keep it consistently moist—not too dry, but not soaking wet either.
Water the soil regularly, but don’t overdo it. Water when the soil feels dry to the touch, making sure the excess water drains out of the pot.
Forget-me-nots prefer cool temperatures (55-65°F or 13-18°C). Too hot, and they might not bloom well. As for humidity, they like it moderate but not too humid.
Place your forget-me-not pots in a spot where they’ll get partial sun. They can handle full sun, but in warmer climates, a little afternoon shade will keep them happier.
Keep your pots somewhere with indirect light indoors or in a garden spot that’s partially shaded outdoors. Forget-me-nots do best with just a few hours of sunlight each day.
Now that you’ve got your forget-me-nots growing strong, it’s important to keep up with a little regular maintenance.
Forget-me-nots are pretty low-maintenance when it comes to feeding, but you can give them a little boost with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during their growing season.
Once the blooms start to fade, snip them off just above the nearest set of leaves. This encourages the plant to produce more flowers.
If the stems get too long or scraggly, you can trim them back to maintain a compact shape.
Mulching isn’t a must for potted forget-me-nots, but it can still be helpful. Since pots tend to dry out faster than garden beds, adding a thin layer of mulch (like bark chips or compost) can help retain moisture and reduce how often you need to water. Just make sure to leave a little space around the stems to prevent rot.
If your forget-me-nots start outgrowing their pots, you can repot them into a larger container. Gently remove the plant from its old pot and place it in a pot that’s 2-3 inches larger in diameter.
You’ll know it’s time to repot if:
Overwintering
While forget-me-nots are fairly resilient, there are a few pests and diseases to watch out for:
A: Yes, they can spread! Forget-me-nots are self-seeding, meaning once you have them, you may find new plants popping up around your garden or pots. If you’re not careful, they can spread a little too much, so keep an eye on them if you’re growing them in the ground.
A: Forget-me-nots are mainly known for their beauty, but some traditional herbal uses include their use as a mild anti-inflammatory or for soothing the skin. However, they aren’t typically grown for medicinal purposes, and it’s always best to double-check with an expert before trying any plant-based remedies.
A: For container gardens, try pairing forget-me-nots with trailing lobelia or sweet alyssum. Both plants add color and texture, and their compact size makes them ideal for pots. Lobelia's trailing habit and alyssum's fragrance will enhance the overall appeal of your container garden.
