Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
If there’s one plant that feels like pure nostalgia, it’s the lilac bush. That sweet fragrance drifting through the air, the big clusters of purple (or pink, white, even yellow) blooms—lilacs just scream "cottage garden charm." Whether you want a beautiful hedge, a statement shrub, or just something to make your yard smell amazing in the spring, lilacs are a fantastic choice.
But, like any plant, lilacs need the right care to thrive. So let’s talk about everything you need to know—planting, watering, pruning, and even what to do if pests try to mess with your fragrant blooms.
Discover the sweetest-smelling blooms that bring beauty *and* heavenly scent to your garden.
Before we jump into the details, let’s cover the basics of what lilacs are and why they’re worth growing.
Lilacs come in many shapes and sizes, from towering tree-like varieties to compact shrubs perfect for small gardens. Here are some of the best lilac varieties, each with its own charm:
The most well-known and traditional lilac, this variety produces large, fragrant clusters of double flowers in shades of purple, pink, or white. It can grow up to 10 feet tall or even 15 feet tall and makes a beautiful hedge or statement lilac shrubs. It blooms in mid to late spring and thrives in cool climates.
If you love lilacs but don’t have much space, this compact lilac cultivar is a perfect choice. It grows only 4 to 5 feet wide and tall, making it great for small gardens or even containers. It has lavender-pink flowers and a lovely scent, blooming a bit later than the common lilac.
This is a later-blooming lilac that produces pale purple to pink flowers with a strong, sweet fragrance. It’s smaller than the common lilac (about 6 to 8 feet tall), making it a good choice for landscapes that need a mid-sized shrub. In fall, its leaves turn a beautiful burgundy color, adding extra interest to your garden.
Unlike other lilacs, this one grows more like a small tree, reaching heights of 20 to 30 feet. Instead of the usual purple flowers, it produces large, creamy white blooms that have a light, honey-like scent. It blooms later in the season (early summer) and is an excellent choice for those who want a lilac but need something more tree-like.
This variety is perfect for those who want lilacs beyond spring! Unlike traditional lilacs, which bloom once a year, the Bloomerang Lilac reblooms in late summer and fall. It stays fairly compact, growing 4 to 5 feet tall, and has classic lavender-purple flowers. If you love lilacs but wish they lasted longer, this is a great option.
Explore the charm of white birch trees—from fun facts to easy care tips for your garden.
Lilacs are best planted in early spring or fall, when the weather is cool but the ground is still workable.
For the best results, plant lilac bushes along a fence line, near a garden border, or as a focal point in a sunny corner of your yard. They make excellent natural privacy screens when planted in a row along property lines. Avoid low-lying areas where water tends to collect, as lilacs prefer well-drained soil.
Lilacs are not houseplants—they need to be planted outdoors in a spot with plenty of sun. They do best with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day, so avoid shady areas.
For the healthiest growth, plant them somewhere with good air circulation. Lilacs hate being crammed into humid, damp spots, which can lead to disease issues.
Whether you're planting a young lilac seedling or a potted lilac, the process is simple. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can even try growing lilacs from seeds—though it takes a lot of patience!
Lilacs can be grown from seeds, but they take years to mature and bloom. If you’re up for the challenge, follow these steps:
Honestly? Most gardeners buy young lilac plants instead of growing from seed—it’s just faster and easier! But if you’re patient and love a challenge, starting from seed can be a rewarding experiment.
Once your lilac is in the ground, it’s all about giving it the right conditions to thrive. Luckily, lilacs are pretty low-maintenance, but they do have a few preferences!
Lilacs love well-draining soil—they hate sitting in water! If your soil tends to stay soggy, mix in sand or compost to improve drainage. They prefer a slightly alkaline soil pH (6.5 to 7.5), so if your soil is too acidic, adding a bit of garden lime can help.
Lilacs like deep but infrequent watering. A good soak once a week is usually enough, unless it's hot and dry—then you may need to water a bit more. However, avoid overwatering! Lilacs don’t like “wet feet” (aka waterlogged roots), which can lead to root rot.
Lilacs are cold-weather lovers and thrive in cooler climates, ideally in temperatures between 60°F and 75°F (15°C to 24°C) during the growing season. They require a chilling period of at least 1,000 hours below 45°F (7°C) in winter to bloom properly. They don’t do well in extreme heat or high humidity, so if you live in a warmer zone (zone 8), plant them where they’ll get some afternoon shade to protect them from scorching sun.
Lilacs need sun to bloom well! Aim for at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. If your lilac is planted in too much shade, it might grow just fine, but it won’t produce many flowers—and what’s a lilac bush without those gorgeous blooms?
Lilacs don’t need a lot of fertilizer—in fact, too much nitrogen will give you lots of leaves but fewer flowers (and we definitely want those blooms!).
✔ Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer (like a 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 mix) in early spring before new growth starts.
✔ Or, just add compost around the base for a natural nutrient boost.
✔ Avoid over-fertilizing—lilacs do best with just one light feeding in early spring using a balanced fertilizer, like 10-10-10, at a rate of 1/2 cup per plant.
Pruning is key for shaping your lilac and encouraging new growth. But timing is everything!
✔ Lilacs bloom on old wood, meaning they develop flower buds on the previous season’s growth. That’s why pruning right after flowering is crucial—if you prune too late in the season, you’ll accidentally cut off next year’s flower buds.
✔ Deadheading, or removing spent blooms helps your lilac look tidy and may encourage better blooming the following year.
✔ Cut back older, diseased, or damaged branches (especially thick, woody stems) to encourage fresh growth and more blooms.
✔ Thin out overcrowded areas to improve air circulation and prevent disease.
Tip: If your lilac is old and overgrown, rejuvenation pruning can help! Cut back one-third of the oldest branches each year over three years to refresh the bush without sacrificing all the flowers at once.
Mulch is your lilac’s best friend—it locks in moisture and keeps weeds away.
✔ Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch (wood chips, bark, or straw) around the base of your lilac.
✔ Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
Lilacs are not the best container plants since they get pretty big, but dwarf lilac varieties (like ‘Dwarf Korean Lilac’) can work in pots.
✔ Use a large container with good drainage (at least 12–16 inches deep).
✔ Repot every couple of years to refresh the soil and prevent the plant from becoming root-bound.
✔ Place potted lilacs in a sunny spot—they still need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily.
Lilacs are naturally hardy, but a little extra protection won’t hurt in colder zones.
✔ In fall, add a thick layer of mulch (3–4 inches) around the base to insulate the roots.
✔ If your area gets harsh winters, you can wrap young lilacs in burlap for added protection.
Lilac Borers – These tunnel into stems, causing wilting. Cut off infected branches and use insecticidal sprays if needed.
Aphids – These tiny bugs suck sap from the leaves. A strong spray of water or neem oil helps.
Powdery Mildew – A white, powdery fungus on leaves. Improve airflow and use a fungicide if needed.
Bacterial Blight – Causes dark, water-soaked spots. Prune affected areas and avoid overhead watering.
A: No, but they often get confused because of their similar purple blooms and fragrance. Lilacs belong to the olive family (Oleaceae), while lavender is part of the mint family (Lamiaceae).
A: Yes! The easiest way to propagate lilacs is by taking softwood cuttings in early summer or by digging up and transplanting suckers (small shoots growing from the base of an established lilac).
A: Yes, some horticulturists suggest grafted lilacs for stronger root systems and unique flower varieties. However, they’ll also advise on proper care since grafted plants can sometimes be more delicate.
