Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
Alright, let’s dig into growing potatoes – a hardy, humble veggie that’s as versatile in the kitchen as it is in the garden. Potatoes are good for a lot more than mashed and fried deliciousness; they’re packed with nutrients, filling, and surprisingly easy to grow.
Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) are tuber plants, meaning they grow underground storage units we know as “spuds.” They’re rich in carbs, vitamins, and fiber, making them a go-to for hearty meals. A few quick details to keep in mind:
Potatoes come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors, and choosing the right type depends on your taste and what you want to use them for. Here are some popular types:
Potatoes can be grown outdoors in the ground, in containers, or even indoors if you have the right setup.
Now, let’s get to the actual planting part. Growing potatoes is a hands-on project, but it’s beginner-friendly if you follow these simple steps.
Don’t use store-bought potatoes because they are often treated with anti-sprouting chemicals to extend their shelf life, which isn’t ideal for planting. Pick up seed potatoes at your local garden center, farm supply store, or online seed supplier. These are certified disease-free and come in a range of varieties, so you can choose the best ones for your garden.
What is Chitting? Chitting is the process of pre-sprouting your seed potatoes to give them a head start before they go into the ground. It’s totally optional but can result in faster, more vigorous growth.
How to Chit: Place your seed potatoes in a cool, well-lit area (a windowsill works well) for about two weeks. You’ll start to see little sprouts emerging from the eyes, which are tiny dimples or buds on the potato skin. This shows they’re ready for planting!
If your seed potatoes are on the larger side (around the size of a golf ball or bigger), cut them into smaller chunks. Each piece should have at least one “eye” where it can sprout.
Tip: After cutting, let the pieces sit out for a day or so to dry. This helps form a callous on the cut surface, which protects against rot when planted.
Dig a Trench: In your garden bed or designated potato-growing spot, dig a trench about 6-8 inches deep. Potatoes like rich, well-draining soil, so if your soil could use a boost, add compost or organic matter to improve nutrients and texture.
Spacing: Make sure your trenches are spaced about 12-15 inches apart so the plants have enough room to grow.
Place each potato piece in the trench, cut-side down and with the eyes facing up. Space them about 12-15 inches apart to allow room for growth. Once placed, cover the potato pieces with about 4 inches of soil—don’t fill the trench completely just yet!
Why Partial Covering? As the plants grow, you’ll need to mound more soil around them to protect the growing tubers and ensure a better yield.
As your potato plants start growing and reach around 6 inches in height, it’s time to “hill” or mound the soil around the base of each plant. Hilling helps prevent the tubers from being exposed to sunlight, which can cause greening and bitterness.
How to Mound: Gently pull more soil around the base of the plants, covering the lower stems. Leave some of the upper leaves exposed. Repeat this process as the plants continue to grow, adding more soil to the mounds each time the plants grow another 6 inches or so.
Once your potatoes are in the ground, follow these requirements to help them grow strong and produce a great yield.
Potatoes do best in loose, well-draining, loamy soil that allows the tubers to expand without resistance. Avoid heavy or clay-like soils, which can cause issues like rot and make harvesting tricky. If your soil is heavy, consider mixing in sand or compost to improve drainage and texture.
Keep the soil consistently moist but avoid oversaturating. About 1-2 inches of water per week is ideal. Water deeply but infrequently, which encourages strong root growth. Early morning watering helps keep leaves dry during the day, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
Temperature: Potatoes grow best in cooler weather, around 60-70°F. They’ll struggle in extreme heat, which can hinder tuber formation.
Humidity: Potatoes can tolerate high humidity as long as the leaves aren’t sitting in water. Damp leaves can invite disease, so aim for good airflow around plants to keep moisture from building up.
They need full sun for at least 6-8 hours a day. So pick a sunny location with open exposure. Sunlight not only boosts yields but also prevents issues like legginess, where plants stretch in low light and fail to develop strong stems.
Choose a spot that allows enough room for spreading roots and ample airflow between plants. This spacing will help prevent fungal issues, which potatoes are susceptible to.
Maintaining your potato plants isn’t complicated, but a little attention can go a long way to ensure a healthy, bountiful crop. Here’s what you need to know:
Start by adding a balanced organic fertilizer or compost when planting. Around mid-season—when plants are really taking off—hit them with another dose of fertilizer to keep them going strong. Look for a balanced fertilizer, like a 10-10-10, or one slightly higher in phosphorus and potassium to encourage tuber growth.
Once your potato plants start poking through the soil, apply a good layer of organic mulch around them—think 2-3 inches of straw, leaves, or wood chips. This layer will help lock in moisture, keep soil temperatures stable, and keep weeds from competing with your potatoes.
Potatoes don’t really need pruning like a tomato or pepper plant might. But if you spot flowers forming, you can snip them off if you want to direct all the plant’s energy into growing those tubers underground. Some gardeners swear by it; others leave the flowers alone.
If you’re growing potatoes in containers, make sure they’re big, sturdy, deep—at least 12-15 inches—and have good drainage. Start by filling the container a third of the way, and then as the plant grows, keep adding soil to mound it up. This creates a cozy environment for the tubers to form.
If you’re in an area with cold winters, it’s best to harvest your potatoes before frost. Potatoes don’t like freezing temps, and frosty soil can damage or ruin your crop. Dig them up once the plant’s leaves start to die back.
Potatoes aren’t immune to garden pests, but you can manage them with a few precautions.
The best part – harvesting your very own potatoes!
A: Yes, you can! Potatoes are perfect for vertical growing setups, like a potato tower or stacked garden. As the potato vines grow, you can keep adding layers of soil or mulch to encourage more tubers higher up. Vertical growing works well in smaller spaces and can even be done in a deep raised bed or large container. Just make sure to keep the vines supported if they start sprawling.
A: "Earlies" are potatoes that mature faster, usually within 70-90 days, and are perfect for harvesting as new potatoes. They’re smaller and tender with thin skins. "Maincrop" potatoes take longer to mature, about 100-120 days, and they’re usually larger with thicker skins, which makes them ideal for storage. If you want a long harvest, you can plant both types!
A: Green potatoes occur when tubers are exposed to sunlight, which leads to the production of solanine, a bitter compound that’s toxic in large amounts. To avoid this, keep the soil mounded over the plants as they grow and ensure that no tubers are peeking out from the soil. Green potatoes should be discarded, as solanine doesn’t go away with cooking.
