Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
Known for their elegant white blooms and lush green foliage, peace lilies are among the most beloved indoor plants for both beginner and experienced gardeners. More than just a beautiful addition to your home, a peace lily plant also offers natural air-purifying benefits, helping to create a healthier and more serene living space. Whether you’re drawn to their graceful appearance or their low-maintenance nature, understanding the right care techniques is key to keeping your peace lilies thriving year-round. In this guide, we’ll walk you through essential tips on watering, lighting, soil, and overall maintenance so you can enjoy the long-lasting beauty and vitality of your peace lily.
While most peace lilies share the same care requirements, there are several varieties that differ in size and leaf patterns:
Spathiphyllum ‘Mauna Loa Supreme’ – A classic favorite among peace lily enthusiasts, this variety is prized for its large, glossy, dark green leaves and tall, elegant white spathes that can last for weeks. Reaching up to 4 feet in height, it makes a dramatic statement in corners, entryways, or large office spaces. Its upright growth habit and generous bloom size give it a bold yet graceful presence indoors.
Spathiphyllum ‘Domino’ – This striking variegated variety stands out for its deep green leaves streaked and speckled with creamy white markings, giving it a more decorative look compared to solid green types. ‘Domino’ grows to about 30 inches tall, making it manageable for most homes while still providing a lush, tropical feel. Even without flowers, its patterned foliage serves as a natural centerpiece for living rooms or bright hallways.
Spathiphyllum ‘Sensation’ – The largest peace lily available, ‘Sensation’ can grow up to 6 feet tall in ideal indoor conditions, with massive, ribbed leaves reaching up to 20 inches long. Its bold size makes it an excellent choice for filling empty corners or adding a tropical statement to open-plan living spaces. The lush, dense foliage creates a sense of greenery and tranquility, even when not in bloom.
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Peace lilies are rarely grown from seed because germination is slow and unpredictable, but if you try:
Peace lilies thrive in a well-draining, nutrient-rich potting mix that mimics their natural tropical forest floor environment, where roots grow in loose, organic matter. An ideal mix contains peat moss or coco coir for moisture retention, perlite or coarse sand for aeration, and compost or aged bark for nutrients. The pH should be slightly acidic to neutral, ideally between 5.8 and 6.5, as this range allows for optimal nutrient absorption. Avoid using heavy, clay-based garden soil, which compacts easily and traps excess water, depriving roots of oxygen and encouraging root rot. For long-term potted growth, consider refreshing the top few inches of soil once or twice a year to maintain fertility.
Peace lilies prefer consistently moist soil but should never sit in waterlogged conditions. Overwatering is one of the most common mistakes with this plant and can lead to root rot, yellowing leaves, and fungal growth. The most reliable way to know when to water is to press your finger into the top inch of soil—if it feels dry, water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom. Always empty saucers after watering to prevent stagnant water buildup. These plants are sensitive to chemicals like chlorine and fluoride, so using filtered, distilled, or rainwater is ideal. In cooler months, when growth slows, reduce watering frequency slightly but never let the root ball completely dry out.
Being tropical plants, peace lilies flourish in warm, stable indoor conditions with temperatures between 65 and 80°F (18–27°C). Exposure to cold drafts, open windows in winter, or sudden temperature drops can cause wilting and blackened leaf tips. High humidity is equally important—aim for 50–60% or more to keep leaves lush and glossy. If indoor air is dry, especially during heating season, boost humidity by misting the foliage regularly, placing the pot on a water-filled pebble tray, grouping plants together, or using a humidifier. Insufficient humidity can result in brown leaf edges, while excessively dry air may also reduce flowering.
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Peace lilies do best in bright, indirect light, such as near an east- or north-facing window, where they receive gentle morning or filtered daylight. In low-light conditions, they will still grow but may produce fewer blooms. Avoid placing them in direct midday or afternoon sunlight, which can scorch leaves, fade their deep green color, and cause yellowing. Rotate the plant every few weeks to ensure even light exposure and balanced growth. For windowless spaces, peace lilies can adapt to fluorescent lighting, making them a popular choice for offices and indoor work areas. If leaves start stretching or blooms become rare, it may be a sign they need more light.
Peace lilies thrive when they receive the right nutrients at the right time. Use a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer with an equal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—such as a 20-20-20 formula. Always dilute the fertilizer to half the manufacturer’s recommended strength to avoid burning the roots or overstimulating the plant. Apply the fertilizer every six weeks during the active growing period in spring and summer, when the plant is producing new leaves and flowers. During fall and winter, the plant’s growth naturally slows, so discontinue fertilizing to prevent nutrient buildup and allow the plant to rest. For best results, water the plant lightly before fertilizing to help distribute nutrients evenly through the soil and reduce the risk of root damage.
Regular pruning not only keeps your peace lily looking neat but also promotes healthier growth. Remove any yellow, brown, or wilted leaves by cutting them off at the base of the stem—these leaves are no longer helping the plant and may attract pests or fungal problems. Similarly, clip away spent flower stalks after blooms fade to encourage the plant to focus energy on producing fresh flowers. Always use sterilized, sharp scissors or pruning shears to make clean cuts, reducing the risk of introducing disease. After pruning, wipe the leaves gently with a damp cloth to remove dust and keep the foliage shiny, which also improves the plant’s ability to photosynthesize.
Although mulching is not a necessity for indoor peace lilies, it can be a useful step to help with moisture retention and to give the pot a finished look. Apply a thin decorative layer—about half an inch—of materials like preserved sphagnum moss, fine bark chips, or coconut coir over the soil surface. This light mulch layer slows down evaporation, especially in dry indoor environments, and helps maintain more consistent soil moisture between waterings. It also prevents water from splashing soil onto the leaves when watering, which helps reduce the risk of fungal leaf spots. Avoid heavy mulching, as too thick a layer can trap excess moisture and create conditions for root rot.
Peace lilies generally need repotting every one to two years, or sooner if you notice roots poking out from the drainage holes, soil drying out too quickly, or the plant becoming rootbound. Select a pot that is only one to two inches larger in diameter than the current one; too large a container can hold excess water and lead to soggy soil. Use a fresh, high-quality potting mix that drains well but retains enough moisture to support steady growth. A mix containing peat moss, perlite, and compost is ideal. When repotting, gently loosen the roots and remove any dead or rotting portions before placing the plant into its new home. Water thoroughly after repotting to help the roots settle into the fresh soil.
Since peace lilies are tropical plants, they require protection from cold temperatures. For indoor plants, keep them in a stable, warm environment with temperatures between 65–80°F (18–27°C) during winter, away from cold drafts caused by open windows, exterior doors, or heating vents. Reduce watering slightly during the cooler months, allowing the top inch of soil to dry before the next watering, as the plant’s growth will slow and it will need less moisture. For peace lilies grown outdoors in tropical or subtropical regions, they can remain outside year-round, but if nighttime temperatures drop below 60°F (15°C), move the plant indoors or cover it with a light frost cloth. Always monitor for signs of stress such as drooping leaves, which may indicate that the plant is too cold or too dry.
Spider mites are tiny pests that can cause peace lily leaves to develop fine webbing, yellow or brown speckles, and an overall faded appearance. They thrive in dry indoor environments and feed on plant sap, which weakens the plant over time. To control them, increase humidity by misting the leaves regularly or placing a humidity tray nearby. Wiping the leaves with a damp cloth can help remove mites, while heavier infestations may require insecticidal soap or neem oil treatments.
Mealybugs are sap-feeding pests that appear as small, cotton-like clusters on the joints and undersides of peace lily leaves. They often leave behind a sticky honeydew residue that can attract mold. Warm, humid indoor conditions can help them multiply quickly. You can control mealybugs by dabbing them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or spraying the plant with neem oil weekly until the infestation is gone. It’s also important to isolate any infected plants to prevent the pests from spreading to others.
Scale insects are sap-sucking pests protected by hard, dome-shaped shells, which makes them difficult to remove. They typically attach to the stems and leaves, causing yellowing and weakening of the plant. You can manage a scale infestation by gently scraping the insects off with a soft brush or cloth, then applying horticultural oil or neem oil to suffocate them. Treatments should be repeated every 7–10 days until the pests are completely eliminated.
Root rot is one of the most common problems for peace lilies and usually happens when the plant is overwatered or grown in poorly draining soil. The first signs are wilting leaves despite moist soil, a foul smell, and mushy roots. To save the plant, remove the affected roots and repot it in fresh, well-draining soil. Always use a pot with drainage holes and water only when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Leaf spot disease causes brown or black spots with yellow halos to appear on peace lily leaves. Over time, the spots can merge, damaging large areas of the foliage. This disease is often spread by fungal or bacterial pathogens, usually through splashing water. To control it, remove infected leaves, avoid wetting the foliage when watering, and, if necessary, apply a copper-based fungicide to prevent further spread.
This fungal disease affects the base (crown) and roots of the plant, causing yellowing leaves, drooping growth, and a mushy crown with a foul odor. It is caused by the Cylindrocladium fungus, which thrives in wet, poorly drained soil. Severely infected plants are often beyond saving and should be discarded. Prevent the problem by using well-draining soil, watering carefully, and sterilizing tools and pots before reuse.
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If your peace lily plant isn’t producing flowers, it may not be getting enough light. Peace lilies prefer bright, indirect light rather than low light if you want blooms. Try moving the plant closer to a bright window but avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves. Feeding during the growing season with a balanced houseplant fertilizer can also help keep your peace lily blooming.
To water your peace lily correctly, wait until the top inch of soil feels dry before watering. In warmer months, your watering schedule may be once a week, while in cooler months it’s less frequent. Always use a pot with drainage holes and empty the saucer after watering to prevent the plant from sitting in water, which can cause root rot.
Yes, peace lilies thrive indoors and are considered an easy plant to grow, even in low light. However, blooms may be fewer. For a beautiful peace lily with more flowers, place it where it gets bright light but avoid direct sunlight to keep the large leaves healthy.
