Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
Okay, let’s talk about elephant ear plants—because if you’ve ever walked past one and thought, “Whoa, that’s a jungle in a pot,” you’re not alone. These bold, leafy giants bring all the drama (in the best way) to gardens and living rooms alike. But don’t let their size intimidate you. With the right care, elephant ears are actually pretty chill plants to grow.
Let’s start with the lowdown. "Elephant ear" isn’t just one plant—it’s a group of plants known for their heart-shaped large leaves that legit look like elephant ears. They belong to the genera Colocasia, Alocasia, Xanthosoma, and Caladium. All beautiful. All leafy. All extra.
Here’s a basic profile so you can get to know them better:
There are lots of cultivars, but here are a few fan favorites:
Deep purple, almost black leaves? Yes please. This one’s dramatic and gothic in the best way. The leaves are velvety and heart-shaped, and when the light hits just right, they look almost iridescent. Grows up to 5–6 feet tall and thrives in moist soil. Great for making a bold statement in a container or tucked into a tropical bed.
This one’s a bit of a cutie. Smaller in size (usually 1–2 feet tall), but big on drama with those arrow-shaped leaves and high-contrast white veins. It's usually grown as houseplants because it stays compact.
Okay, Mojito is straight-up art. The leaves are a blend of green and purple-black splotches that look like someone splattered them with paint on purpose. Every leaf is different, which makes it a total conversation piece. It grows 3–4 feet tall and wide and does best with lots of water and sunlight. It’s tropical, flashy, and not even sorry about it.
This one practically glows. The leaves are neon chartreuse and super eye-catching—like if a glow stick became a plant. It grows fast and gets big, so it’s perfect for brightening up shady corners of your yard or bringing some unexpected pop to a dark planter.
Meet the beast. ‘California’ is a fast-growing, giant variety that can shoot up to 6–8 feet tall with wide, ruffled green leaves. It's got a more upright, sculptural habit than the droopy Colocasias, so it looks like it means business. Not ideal for tiny patios or cramped spaces, but if you’ve got the room? Go big or go home.
If you’re growing outdoors, plant them after the last frost when the soil is nice and warm (like 65°F or warmer). These babies hate the cold.
Outdoors: Pick a spot that gets bright, indirect sun to partial shade. Full sun is fine for some Colocasia types, but others like a bit of shade.
Indoors: Place near a bright window, but avoid direct sunlight. Those big leaves will burn.
If you’re in a cooler climates (zone 7 or below), grow them in containers so you can bring them indoor for winter. Trust me, they won’t survive a frost.
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Alright, here’s the part where you get your hands dirty (literally). Don’t worry—it’s not complicated. This plant is easy to grow when in the right growing conditions. Whether you’re planting bulbs (which are technically tubers, but we’ll call them bulbs to keep it simple) or seedlings, this part is super beginner-friendly if you follow the steps.
This is how most folks grow their elephant ears, especially if you're starting in spring.
Head to your local garden center or shop online—but make sure the tubers look alive and well. You want ones that are:
👉 Pro tip: If you're unsure, go for Colocasia tubers for outdoor planting and Alocasia if you're planning to keep it indoors.
This plant needs space. Whether you’re growing in a pot or the ground, make sure:
You don’t need a ruler, but aim for somewhere between the size of a large orange and a small grapefruit in depth.
Fill the hole back in gently and press it down just enough to remove air pockets. Don’t press too hard—we want the soil to be firm but still breathable.
Give it a good soak right after planting. The soil should be consistently moist (not swampy!) to kick-start root growth.
This is where most beginners freak out a little—it can take 2–3 weeks (or more) before any shoots pop up. Don’t panic. Just keep the soil moist and trust the process.
If you have a starter plant from the nursery, here’s how to plant it:
Turn the pot sideways, squeeze the sides (if it’s plastic), and slide the plant out. Hold it by the base—not the stem—to avoid damage.
If the roots are tightly circling the pot, use your fingers to gently tease them apart. This encourages them to grow outward instead of staying cramped.
Make sure it’s wide and deep enough so the plant sits at the same level it was in the pot. You don’t want to bury it too deep or leave roots exposed.
Tuck the plant in with some fresh soil, then press down around the base to anchor it. You can add mulch around it afterward (more on that later) to help hold in moisture.
Give it a generous watering right after planting. It helps eliminate any air pockets and makes the roots feel at home.
💡 Beginner Bonus Tips:
Elephant ear plants love rich, loamy soil—the kind that feels soft, slightly crumbly, and full of organic matter. If you're planting in a pot, use a potting mix with some compost and a bit of perlite or sand works great. Bonus points if you throw in some worm castings or aged manure for that nutrient boost!
Elephant ears need a lot of water—especially Colocasia, which can even grow in boggy or wet areas like the edges of ponds. Outdoors, make sure you're watering them regularly, especially during hot summer months. Indoors, allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings, then give it a good soak. Overwatering is a common beginner mistake, but underwatering makes them droopy and sad.
Their ideal temperature range is between 65–85°F (18–29°C). They don’t like the cold one bit, so if it dips below 50°F, they’ll start to sulk. High humidity is a big deal for these tropical plants, aim for 60% or higher if you can. If your house is dry, mist the leaves regularly or place a humidifier nearby. You can also group your houseplants together or set the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water—instant humidity boost.
When it comes to light, elephant ears like it bright but not brutal. Outdoors, most Colocasia varieties can handle full sun, especially if they’re well-watered. Alocasia, on the other hand, prefers partial shade—think dappled light under a tree or on the east side of your house. Indoors, bright indirect light is best. Place your plant near a window where it gets lots of light, but filter out the harsh afternoon sun with a sheer curtain if needed.
They’re stunning around water features like ponds or in tropical-themed garden beds. Shady corners of the yard are perfect for Alocasia types, while Colocasia can go in sunnier spots if they get enough water. Indoors, keep your elephant ear near a bright window but away from direct sunlight. South or east-facing windows usually work best. Oh—and don’t forget to rotate your pot every week or two so it grows evenly on all sides!
During the growing season (spring through early fall), you’ll want to feed them once a month. A balanced liquid fertilizer works just fine (something like 10-10-10), but if you really want to go big with those leaves, choose high-nitrogen fertilizer, that’s the stuff that boosts leaf growth.
Use clean scissors or garden shears and cut close to the soil (without nicking the healthy parts). No need to go wild with trimming—these plants aren’t meant to be shaped like topiaries. Just give your plant the occasional tidy-up, and they’ll stay looking fresh and lush.
Use something like bark chips, shredded leaves, or compost. Spread it around the base of the plant, but keep a little breathing room right around the stem to prevent rot. Bonus: Mulch also keeps weeds down, which means less work for you.
When the roots start getting crowded or poking out of the drainage holes, it’s time for a new home. Choose a pot that’s one size up with plenty of drainage, and refresh the soil while you’re at it.
In Pots: Bring your elephant ears inside before the first frost hits. Find a cool, dry place indoors with minimal light, like a basement or garage.
In Ground: You’ll need to dig up the tubers. Let the them dry for a few days in a warm, airy spot then store in a box filled with peat moss, sawdust, or even newspaper. Keep the box somewhere dark, dry, and cool (but not freezing). When spring rolls around, replant and watch the magic happen all over again.
Spider mites: Tiny pests that love dry air. Leaves get speckled or dusty.
Fix: Spray with neem oil or a soap-water mix. Boost humidity.
Aphids: These cluster on new growth and suck the life out of your plant.
Fix: Rinse them off or treat with insecticidal soap.
Mealybugs: Look like tiny cotton balls on the plant.
Fix: Dab with rubbing alcohol or spray with neem oil.
Root rot: Caused by overwatering or poor drainage. Leaves droop, tubers go mushy.
Fix: Improve drainage, cut away mushy parts, repot if needed.
Leaf spot: Brown or black spots that spread.
Fix: Remove affected leaves, reduce watering on foliage, and improve air circulation.
Yes, but with a big ol’ asterisk.
Do NOT try to eat Alocasia or Xanthosoma tubers unless you’re sure they’re the edible kind. When in doubt, just enjoy the foliage and leave the harvesting to the pros.
A: When the leave turn yellow, it could be overwatering (super common), poor drainage, or even a lack of nutrients. Also, yellow leaves sometimes happen naturally as older leaves die off, especially when new leaves are popping up—so if it’s just one or two, no panic.
A: If your plant is acting a little lazy, it could just be taking a seasonal nap. These plants go dormant in winter, even indoors sometimes, so don’t be alarmed. If it’s growing season and still no new leaves, check your light—too little sun can slow them down.
A: Possibly! Brown or black spots with a yellow halo around them could be a sign of a fungal infection, usually from too much moisture or poor air circulation. Cut off the affected leaves and back off on watering a bit.
