Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
You’ve probably seen this plant in fancy hotel lobbies or next to someone’s Pinterest-perfect couch, looking all lush and tropical. With their feathery, arching fronds and a tall, graceful posture, they bring an instant touch of elegance to any room. And if you’ve ever thought, “I need that in my life,” you’re not wrong.
But here’s the deal—majesty palms look easygoing, but they can be a bit dramatic and they are high-maintenance. Don’t worry, though—I’ve got you covered! Here’s everything you need to know to keep your majesty palm alive and thriving.
Before we get into the care part, let’s do a quick intro:
Majesty palms aren’t just pretty; they’re also amazing air purifiers. So while they’re busy making your space look like a tropical retreat, they’re also filtering out toxins from the air. Win-win.
Fun fact: There aren’t really “types” of majesty palms—just the one standard variety. But if you’re looking for a similar vibe with slightly easier care, you might also like:
A smaller, low-maintenance palm with soft, feathery fronds. It thrives in low light and doesn’t need constant humidity, making it a great choice for beginners.
A bushier, fast-growing palm with bright green, arching fronds. It requires bright indirect light and regular watering but is easier to care for than a Majesty Palm.
Majesty palms are gorgeous, but if you don’t want to deal with their high-maintenance attitude, these are great alternatives.
Majesty palms can live both indoors and outdoors, but their needs change depending on where you keep them:
🌿 Indoors: They love bright, indirect light and high humidity. If you stick one in a dark, dry corner, it’ll sulk (or worse, turn crispy). A sunny spot near a window with sheer curtains is ideal. Regular misting or a nearby humidifier will keep it happy.
🌴 Outdoors: If you live in zones 9-11, you can grow Majesty Palms outside year-round. They thrive in partial shade with moist, well-draining soil. Avoid direct, scorching afternoon sun—it can scorch their fronds.
❄️ Cold Climates? Keep It Inside. Majesty Palms hate frost. If temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C), bring them inside or risk a very unhappy palm
If you bought a Majesty Palm from a nursery, this is the easiest way to plant it.
Majesty Palms can be grown from seed, but be warned—it takes a long time. If you’re up for the challenge, follow these steps.
Majesty Palms love rich, well-draining soil. Think of a mix that’s light and airy, like peat moss, sand, and perlite. It helps the roots breathe and prevents water from sitting at the bottom, which could lead to root rot (yikes!). If you're potting it up, make sure the soil’s got some space for water to flow through.
Here's the deal with watering: keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Overwatering is a big no-no, and under-watering? Well, that’ll leave you with crispy leaves. No one wants that! It’s a good rule to water when the top inch of the soil is dry to the touch. If you’re using tap water, try switching to filtered or distilled water—it helps avoid those tips that are a total giveaway that the water's got too many minerals.
This tropical plant is a total fan of warmth, so aim for 65-85°F. It can tolerate a little drop in temp, but frost? Definitely not its vibe. And humidity? Oh, it loves humidity! If your house is on the dry side, give it a little misting, use a pebble tray, or get a humidifier. The higher the humidity levels, the better, so if you’ve got a bathroom or kitchen nearby, that could be a sweet spot.
Majesty Palms are all about that indirect, bright light. Direct sunlight is a bit too much for them—it can scorch those gorgeous leaves and make them crispy around the edges. If it's getting too little light, though, it’ll slow down and start yellowing. So, find that sweet spot by the window, where it's bright but not direct, and your palm will love you for it!
During the warmer months (spring and summer), give your them a little love every 4-6 weeks with a balanced fertilizer. In fall and winter, it’s nap time for the plant, so cut back on fertilizing. If you're into organic stuff, compost or worm castings are great alternatives.
Don’t stress about pruning too much—it’s mostly about cutting off any dead or yellowing fronds. If you see some brown tips or old fronds, just trim them back at the base. Keep it simple, and don't take off too many at once, or the palm might get stressed. Oh, and make sure your scissors or pruning shears are sharp and clean.
Majesty Palms don’t mind being a little root-bound, but if it’s been a while, it’s time to give it a new pot. Aim to repot every 1-2 years, and pick a pot that’s just 2-3 inches bigger than the current one. When you repot, make sure you don’t bury the trunk too deep—just like it was in the old pot. A little fresh soil and some room to grow will make your palm super happy.
If you’re living in a place with cold winters, make sure to bring them indoor before it gets frosty. It still needs warmth, humidity, and light during the winter months to stay healthy. If your air is dry in the winter, a humidifier can help a ton to prevent the fronds from drying out. Just keep it away from drafts and heat sources, like radiators, to keep your palm stress-free.
Majesty palms are magnets for spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Here’s how to handle them:
A: A Majesty Palm can grow up to 10 feet tall indoors, though it’s usually around 6-8 feet. They have a stately, elegant presence, which makes them a showstopper in any room.
A: Propagating a Majesty Palm from cuttings isn’t easy, and it's not typically successful. The best way to get more plants is by growing them from seed or buying a new plant. But if you’re up for the challenge, you can try to propagate from seed, though it’ll take some patience.
A: If all the leaves turn brown, it could be a sign of root rot, inconsistent watering, or a sudden temperature change. Check the soil moisture and roots to make sure they're healthy. Cut off any fully brown leaves and try to adjust your watering and light to help the plant recover.
