Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
I first spotted Asian Jasmine at my friend’s backyard wedding, I couldn’t help but admire the beautiful, lush groundcover around the garden. As a self-proclaimed green thumb, I knew I had to try it in my own garden. The glossy, evergreen leaves and quick growth were exactly what I needed to fill in some empty spots, and I’ve been hooked ever since. If you’re ready to add this gorgeous, low-maintenance plant to your garden, let me show you how to grow and care for Asian Jasmine!
Asian jasmine, also known as Trachelospermum asiaticum, is a versatile evergreen plant that works wonders as groundcover or a trailing vine. It’s loved for its dense foliage, fragrant blooms, and ability to thrive in various environments. Plus, it’s pretty low maintenance, which makes it perfect for gardeners who love beauty without the extra fuss.
Asian jasmine is not just about looks (though it’s undeniably stunning). It’s incredibly functional too:
While the classic Trachelospermum asiaticum is the most common, there are some fun cultivars to explore:
This cultivar showcases green leaves with creamy white edges, adding a sophisticated, ornamental touch to your garden. The variegation creates a striking contrast when paired with other green plants, making it a favorite for decorative landscaping.
A true showstopper, this variety features new growth that emerges in a stunning blush-pink hue before maturing to a mix of white and green. The ever-changing colors make it feel like a living artwork in your garden, perfect for creating visual interest.
Known for its vibrant yellow-green foliage, this type adds a sunny brightness to any garden corner. Its cheerful, golden tones look fantastic when planted in shaded areas where it can lighten up the space.
Asian jasmine is a flexible plant, but it’s happiest when planted in the right conditions:
Spring or early fall is ideal to give it time to establish roots before extreme temperatures hit.
Outdoor planting is best for Asian jasmine, especially in garden beds, along pathways, or under trees. However, it can also grow indoors in hanging pots if you have a sunny spot.
Planting Asian jasmine is easier than you might think. Whether you're starting with seedlings or seeds, these steps will guide you to success.
Look for a sunny or partially shaded area. Asian jasmine loves light but can handle some shade. Make sure the soil drains well—puddles after rain are a no-go! If your soil isn’t ideal, you can amend it with compost or sand for better drainage.
Grab a trowel or garden fork and loosen the soil to about 6 inches deep. This helps the roots settle in more easily. Mix in some compost or organic matter to give your jasmine a nutrient boost.
Space your planting holes about 12 inches apart. If you’re covering a large area, this spacing will allow the plants to spread and create a lush carpet.
Carefully remove the seedlings from their containers, being gentle with the roots. Place each seedling into its hole, making sure the root ball is just below the surface. Finally, backfill with soil and gently pat it down—don’t compact it too much as the roots need to breathe.
Fill seed trays with a seed-starting mix. Sow the seeds about ¼ inch deep and lightly cover them with soil.
Mist the surface with water and cover the trays with plastic wrap or a humidity dome to create a mini greenhouse effect.
Place the trays in a warm, sunny spot or under grow lights. Keep the soil moist but not soggy—check daily!
After 2-3 weeks, you should see little sprouts emerging. Once they have 2-3 sets of leaves, they’re ready to move to bigger pots or the garden.
Follow the same steps as planting seedlings: choose a good spot, prep the soil, and water thoroughly.
Want to give your Asian jasmine the best chance to thrive? Here’s what you need to know:
Use well-drained, loamy soil enriched with compost or organic matter for nutrients. If your garden soil feels too compacted, mix in some sand to improve drainage.
Water your plants about twice a week when first planted to help the roots establish. Once the plant is mature, it becomes drought-tolerant and only needs watering during dry spells.
Asian jasmine thrives in full sun to partial shade. Aim for 4-6 hours of sunlight daily. If you’re planting it under a tree or in a shady spot, make sure it gets dappled light.
It loves warm weather and grows best in temperatures between 60-80°F. It’s tolerant of high humidity, making it great for southern climates, but it needs protection from frost in colder regions.
Adding a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around your jasmine will help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and reduce weeds. Just keep the mulch a few inches away from the stems to prevent rot.
If you’re planting multiple jasmine plants, space them 12-18 inches apart. This gives them room to spread and form that beautiful dense coverage.
Keeping Asian jasmine in tip-top shape doesn’t have to be a chore. Trust me, once you’ve got the basics down, it’s smooth sailing. Here are my go-to maintenance tips:
Spider mites are tiny, almost invisible pests that can wreak havoc on your Jasmine. They feed on the plant’s sap, causing the leaves to turn yellow and curl. They thrive in dry conditions, so if your plant looks stressed, they could be the culprits.
How to manage them:
Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that often appear as green or black bugs. They love to feed on new growth, causing the leaves to curl, yellow, or drop. Aphids also produce a sticky substance known as honeydew, which can attract mold.
How to manage them:
Powdery mildew shows up as a white, powdery coating on the leaves. It’s more common in humid conditions or when plants are overcrowded, preventing proper airflow.
How to manage it:
Leaf spot disease appears as dark, wet-looking spots on the leaves. It’s often caused by fungi and thrives in moist conditions.
How to manage it:
Yes, it does! Asian Jasmine produces small, white, star-shaped flowers that are super fragrant, usually in late spring or early summer. While the flowers are charming, it’s the lush foliage that tends to steal the show.
Asian Jasmine is a speedy grower, especially in warm, sunny spots. It can spread quickly, sometimes covering up to 2 feet per year. So if you're looking for a fast-growing ground cover or a quick filler, this plant is a great choice! Just keep an eye on it if you don't want it to spread too far.
It sure can, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing! Asian Jasmine is a fast-growing, spreading plant. If you want to keep it in check, just prune it regularly to control its spread. You can also plant it in a contained space, like a raised bed or garden edging, to limit its growth.
