Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
Alright, let's talk about one of my all-time favorite summer bloomers—Angelonia! These plants are often called summer snapdragons and are known for their tall spikes of colorful flowers, which can range from white and pink to purple and blue. They’re heat-tolerant, low-maintenance, and bloom from late spring straight through to fall—seriously, what’s not to love?
Let me just throw in a quick fun fact: the flowers of Angelonia have a mild, sweet fragrance, kind of like a whisper of perfume on a summer breeze. It’s subtle, but it’s there, adding another layer to why these plants are so delightful.
Before diving into the nitty-gritty of Angelonia care, let’s fill in some essential details:
There are a few standout Angelonia varieties that I’ve personally had great success with, and I’d recommend them to anyone.
This series is perfect for small garden spaces or containers as they are compact but pack a punch with their vibrant colors. I’ve grown the purple and white varieties, and they’re gorgeous. The lavender is on my wish list for next year because who doesn’t love a bit more lavender in their life?
If you’re looking to make a statement, ‘Archangel’ is your go-to. These plants are a bit taller and have larger flowers. I once planted the cherry red variety in a bed right by my front door, and it was like rolling out the red carpet every time I came home. The raspberry and blue colors are just as striking—I’m pretty sure my neighbors were jealous.
‘AngelMist’ is the versatile one who fits in anywhere—garden beds, containers, you name it. They come in a variety of colors, including this deep, dark purple that’s absolutely stunning. I’ve used them to fill in gaps in my flower borders, and they’ve never let me down.
So, you’ve picked out your Angelonia variety, and now you’re wondering when, where, and how to plant them. Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered.
Angelonia should be planted in the spring after the last frost date in your area. These plants thrive in warm temperatures, so waiting until the soil has warmed up is essential for successful growth. If you’re starting from seeds, you’ll want to get those going indoors about 6-8 weeks before the frost-free date. But if you’re like me and sometimes forget to plan ahead (oops!), picking up some healthy seedlings from the garden center is just as good.
Choose a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. I’ve planted them in garden beds, but they’re also fantastic in containers. If you’re going the container route, place them near a sunny window or in a sunroom where they can soak up the rays
Let’s get down to the dirt—literally. Here’s how to plant your Angelonia, whether you’re starting from seeds or seedlings.
Gently remove the seedling from its nursery pot. Be careful not to disturb the roots too much. Place the seedling into the hole, ensuring it’s planted at the same depth it was in the pot. You want the base of the plant (where the stem meets the soil) to be level with the soil surface.
Once your Angelonia plants are in the ground or containers, it’s time to focus on their care. These plants are relatively low maintenance, but meeting their basic needs will ensure they thrive and bloom all season long.
Angelonia prefers well-drained soil that is loamy or sandy. The key is good drainage, as these plants don’t tolerate soggy soil. If you’ve got heavy clay soil like I do, consider planting them in raised beds or containers. Adding organic matter like compost can help improve soil structure and fertility.
While Angelonia can tolerate some drought, they’ll reward you with more blooms if you keep the soil consistently moist. During hot, dry spells, you may need to water them more frequently, especially if they’re in containers. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to disease.
Pro Tip: Water your Angelonia plants early in the day to allow the foliage to dry before nightfall, reducing the risk of fungal issues.
Angelonia thrives in warm temperatures and can tolerate the summer heat better than many other annuals. They prefer temperatures between 70°F and 90°F during the day and can handle slightly cooler nights. These plants also enjoy moderate to high humidity, which makes them ideal for regions with humid summers.
If you live in a cooler climate, consider growing Angelonia as annuals or bringing containers indoors before the first frost. They don’t tolerate frost and will need protection if temperatures drop significantly.
Full sun is where Angelonia shines—literally. They need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day to really thrive. If you’ve got a spot in your garden that gets all-day sun, that’s where you’ll want to plant them. In containers, they’ll do great on a sunny patio, balcony, or porch. If growing indoors, choose a south-facing window where the plants can receive plenty of light.
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To keep your plants looking their best, a little maintenance goes a long way. Here are some tips to help you along the way:
Angelonia benefits from regular feeding throughout the growing season. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every 4-6 weeks to encourage continuous blooming. If you’re more of a set-it-and-forget-it type, a slow-release granular fertilizer at the start of the season works too. Just remember, more isn’t always better—too much fertilizer can lead to lots of leaves and fewer flowers. Follow the package instructions and avoid applying too much fertilizer.
Here’s some good news: Angelonia doesn’t need deadheading to keep blooming. But if you’re like me and enjoy a tidy garden, you can snip off spent flowers to keep the plant looking neat. Pruning back the plants by about one-third in mid-summer can also promote a bushier growth habit and more flowers.
Applying a layer of mulch around your Angelonia plants can help conserve soil moisture, suppress weeds, and keep the roots cool. Use organic mulch like shredded bark, straw, or compost, and apply it 2-3 inches deep. Just be sure to keep the mulch away from the base of the plant to prevent rot.
If you live in a warm climate (lucky you!), Angelonia can be grown as a perennial. But for the rest of us, we usually treat them as annuals. However, if you’ve fallen in love with your Angelonia and don’t want to say goodbye at the end of the season, you can try overwintering them indoors. Here’s how you can do it:
Angelonia is relatively resistant to pests and diseases, but like any plant, it can occasionally face issues. Here’s what to look out for and how to handle it:
A: Angelonia pairs well with other heat-loving and low-maintenance plants. Consider planting them with petunias, marigolds, or lantanas for a colorful, summer display. They also look great with ornamental grasses or other annuals that enjoy similar growing conditions.
A: Absolutely! Angelonia’s trailing varieties are perfect for vertical gardens and hanging baskets. They cascade beautifully and add vibrant color to these setups. Just ensure the containers have good drainage and provide them with plenty of sunlight.
A: One of the rarer varieties is the Angelonia angustifolia ‘Blue Angel,’ which has a striking, deep blue color. It’s less common than the more standard colors but offers a unique and eye-catching hue that stands out in any garden.
