Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
There’s something almost magical about bonsai trees. When I first walked into a local bonsai exhibition, I wasn’t sure what to expect. But as soon as I saw those miniature trees perfectly shaped, full of character, and somehow radiating peace—I was hooked. It felt like I’d stepped into a miniature world where nature had been condensed and perfected. Fast forward a few years, and I’ve now got a growing collection of my own, each one with its own personality.
If you’ve ever been curious about bonsai but weren’t sure where to start, you’re in the right place. I’m here to introduce you to best bonsai trees that will not only look stunning but also suit all kinds of gardeners—from total beginners to those who’ve got a few green thumbs.
The Japanese Maple is one of my absolute favorites, and it’s a classic in the bonsai world. With its delicate, hand-like leaves that turn vibrant shades of red, orange, and gold in the fall, this tree offers stunning year-round beauty. This tree can grow up to 20 feet in nature but stays compact as a bonsai, typically between 6-18 inches. The leaves have a lobed, star-like shape and can range in colors from deep green in summer to brilliant red in autumn. Best for gardeners who appreciate seasonal changes and are ready for a tree that needs a bit more care during its dormancy phase.
If you're just starting out, you can't go wrong with a Ficus. It’s hardy, adaptable, and perfect for indoor growing, which is where I started with mine. The Ficus has thick, dark green leaves and a sturdy trunk with aerial roots that give it a striking look. It can grow up to 10 feet as a tree but stays a petite 8-16 inches as a bonsai. This is perfect for beginners or those with limited outdoor space who want a reliable and low-maintenance bonsai.
This was my second bonsai, and it’s perfect if you want a tree that has a traditional, ancient feel to it. Chinese Elms have small, serrated leaves and a beautiful, textured bark that becomes more pronounced with age. As a bonsai, they typically reach 8-12 inches tall.
If you're looking for a classic outdoor bonsai, the Juniper is the way to go. I love how hardy this tree is; it’s perfect for creating dramatic shapes with wiring techniques. This tree has needle-like foliage, which can be bright green or bluish-green, and a gnarled, aged trunk that gives it a timeless appearance. Bonsai Junipers typically range from 6-18 inches tall. If you like shaping and sculpting your bonsai or live in cooler climates, this is perfect for you.
I got into Pine bonsai after seeing a majestic Black Pine at a bonsai show. They have this rugged, mountain feel to them, making them incredibly unique. Pine trees have needle-like leaves and rough, textured bark. They can grow anywhere from 8-24 inches tall as bonsai. I'd say this is best for intermediate gardeners who enjoy working with a bonsai that grows slowly and requires patience.
Azalea bonsai add a pop of color to any collection, and their flowers are simply breathtaking. I’ve had mine for a couple of years, and it never fails to impress when it blooms. Azaleas are known for their vibrant pink, red, or white flowers that bloom in the spring. As bonsai, they grow up to 10-12 inches tall. Gardeners who love flowering plants and can provide consistent care should have this one.
Boxwood bonsai are incredibly versatile, low-maintenance, and easy to grow which makes them great for beginners who want a fuss-free bonsai. Plus, they’re evergreen, so you get year-round beauty. With small, round leaves and a dense structure, Boxwood bonsai can be shaped into various styles. They grow to about 10-18 inches tall.
The Olive bonsai brings Mediterranean vibes to your collection, and it’s pretty hardy for an indoor tree. I’ve always found mine to be low-maintenance yet visually striking. With silver-green leaves and a twisted, gnarled trunk, the Olive tree bonsai has a unique, ancient look. It typically grows 8-12 inches tall. Those who who prefer indoor bonsai and want something with a timeless look would love this one.
The Bougainvillea is a fantastic bonsai for those who love vibrant color. When I first started growing one, I was blown away by its brilliant pink bracts that look like flowers but are actually modified leaves. Bougainvillea has bright, papery bracts that come in shades of pink, purple, and red. It also has small white flowers hidden among the bracts. As a bonsai, it can grow anywhere from 8-16 inches tall.
Also known as Fukien Tea, Carmona is another great indoor bonsai. I enjoy how this tree produces small white flowers and dark, glossy leaves—it feels almost tropical. Carmona bonsai has small, shiny green leaves and delicate white flowers that appear sporadically throughout the year. As a bonsai, it usually reaches 6-12 inches in height. This type of bonsai is best for gardeners who want a flowering bonsai that doesn’t need constant outdoor exposure.
Jade plants are one of the easiest bonsai trees to care for, which is why they’re often recommended for beginners. I’ve had mine for years, and it’s nearly indestructible. Jade has thick, fleshy leaves that are a deep green color. The trunk thickens over time, giving it an ancient appearance even at a small size. Bonsai Jades usually reach 8-14 inches tall. I recommend this to those who are busy or forgetful who want a low-maintenance bonsai that can withstand some neglect.
Now, don't be confused. Jade and Dwarf Jade are actually different tree species. I didn’t know this at first, and I thought they were the same for the longest time! Dwarf Jade, also known as "Elephant Bush," has a more compact and delicate look, making it a popular choice among bonsai enthusiasts who want a smaller, more refined tree. Dwarf Jade has small, round, fleshy leaves that are typically a bright green. Its stems are thinner compared to the regular Jade (Crassula ovata), giving it a more graceful appearance as a bonsai. It usually grows between 6-12 inches tall as a bonsai but can be trained to stay even smaller. This is perfect for beginners or gardeners who want a low-maintenance bonsai that still looks elegant. It’s also a great choice if you prefer to shape your bonsai over time, as its finer growth structure lends itself well to wiring and pruning.
Ficus microcarpa, also known as the Chinese Banyan or Indian Laurel Fig, is a versatile bonsai that I’d recommend to anyone, who want to experiment with aerial root styling or are looking for a resilient plant that can tolerate less-than-ideal conditions. When I first added this beauty to my collection, I was fascinated by its aerial roots and lush, compact leaves. It’s an indoor bonsai favorite due to its resilience and ability to adapt to different conditions. This tropical bonsai tree features glossy, dark green, oval-shaped leaves and can develop striking aerial roots that drop down from the branches, creating an elegant, tropical vibe. It grows anywhere from 8-16 inches tall as a bonsai, with a dense, attractive canopy.
A: If you’re just starting out, I’d recommend Ficus or Dwarf Jade. Both are resilient and forgiving, which is key when you’re learning the ropes. Ficus is great for indoor care, while Dwarf Jade can tolerate a little neglect and still bounce back and grow well.
A: Totally! Almost any tree or shrub can become a bonsai with the right training. You can start from seeds, cuttings, or even buy a pre-bonsai (a young tree that’s ready to be shaped). My favorite method is getting a nursery plant and transforming it into a bonsai by gradually pruning and shaping it.
A: Bonsai growth varies depending on the species. Some bonsai varieties, like Dwarf Jade and Ficus, are relatively fast growers, and you’ll notice significant growth each year. Others, like Pine or Japanese Maple, can take their time. Bonsai is all about patience—sometimes, the slower the growth, the more intricate the tree becomes!
