Wiring is used to guide the branches into specific shapes and positions, allowing you to control how your tree grows. You can use aluminum or copper wire to gently bend and hold branches in place. Typically, wire should be left on the tree for a few months, depending on how fast your tree is growing. You’ll want to check regularly, though—if the wire starts to dig into the bark, it’s time to remove it before it damages the tree. Always be gentle when unwiring to avoid hurting the branches.
Bonsai pots are shallow to restrict root growth and help control the size of the tree. This forces the tree to focus its energy on growing branches, leaves, and, eventually, creating that miniature look. Additionally, shallow pots aid in water drainage, which is crucial for bonsai health since waterlogged roots can easily lead to rot. Aesthetically, the small, shallow pots also highlight the beauty and shape of the bonsai itself, keeping the focus on the tree rather than the container.
Bonsai trees are all about patience. It can take anywhere from 5 to 10 years for a bonsai to be considered “mature,” and even then, they continue to grow and evolve throughout their lifespan. The slower the growth, the more intricate and beautiful the tree becomes. That said, if you’re looking for quicker results, starting with a pre-bonsai or young tree can speed up the process a bit!
Renowned for their elegant, chalice-shaped blooms and vibrant colors, calla lilies are a favorite among flower enthusiasts. Despite their exotic appearance, these versatile plants are surprisingly easy to care for, making them a perfect choice for both novice and experienced gardeners.
This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of calla lily care, from planting to overwintering, ensuring your garden or home is graced with these stunning flowers for years to come. Whether you're drawn to their classic white varieties or prefer the bold hues of pink, yellow, or orange, this guide will equip you with the knowledge to cultivate thriving calla lilies.
Outdoor: The optimal time to plant Calla lily rhizomes outdoors is in spring, after the last frost has passed and the soil temperature has reached 60-65°F (15-18°C). This typically falls between April and May for most regions.
Indoor: To get a head start, you can plant rhizomes indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost. Use pots with drainage holes and a quality mix.
Outdoor:
Indoor:
Outdoor Planting:
In-house Planting:
Rich, well-draining soil with good moisture retention is ideal.
Calla lilies love consistent moisture. Water regularly, especially during active growth. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out slightly between watering.
Ideal temperatures range from 65-85°F (18-29°C). They appreciate moderate humidity, so misting leaves or using a pebble tray can be beneficial.
Provide at least 6 hours of sunlight daily for outdoor plants. At home plants prefer bright, indirect light.
Feed every 2-3 weeks during the growing season with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength.
Outdoor: During the growing season (spring and summer), fertilize your Calla lilies every 2-3 weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Dilute the fertilizer to half the recommended strength to avoid burning the roots. As the blooming period ends, gradually reduce fertilization.
In-house: These Calla lilies benefit from monthly fertilization during their active growth period. Use a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for flowering houseplants. Again, dilute to half strength and apply after watering to prevent fertilizer burn.
Outdoor: Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark, wood chips, or compost, around the base of the plant. Mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weed growth, and regulate soil temperature. Replenish the mulch layer as it decomposes.
Repotting Frequency: Calla lilies generally need repotting every 2-3 years or when they become rootbound (roots fill the pot). The best time for repotting is in early spring before the new growth begins.
Repotting Process:
Outdoor (Colder Climates): In regions with freezing temperatures, Calla lilies cannot survive the winter outdoors. Before the first frost, dig up the rhizomes, brush off excess soil, and allow them to dry for a few days. Store the rhizomes in a cool, dark, and dry place (45-50°F or 7-10°C) until spring.
Outdoor (Warmer Climates): In frost-free areas, Calla lilies can remain outdoors year-round. Simply cut back the foliage after it dies back naturally and provide less moisture during the winter dormancy period.
Indoor: These Calla lilies can be overwintered by reducing moisture and allowing the foliage to die back. Stop fertilizing during this period. Once the foliage has completely dried, you can either leave the rhizome in the pot or remove and store it in a cool, dry place until spring.
Well-Draining: Calla lilies are susceptible to root rot, so a well-draining mix is essential. Choose a mix formulated for flowering plants that contains ingredients like peat moss, perlite, or vermiculite to enhance drainage.
Nutrient-Rich: The mix should also be rich in organic matter to provide essential nutrients for growth and flowering. Consider adding compost or well-rotted manure to enrich the mix.
Slightly Acidic pH: Calla lilies prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0-6.5. You can test the pH of your mix and adjust it if necessary with lime or sulfur.
Regular Irrigation: Keep the potting mix consistently moist, but not soggy. Thoroughly hydrate the plant until water drains from the bottom of the pot. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out slightly between irrigation sessions.
Reduced Irrigation in Winter: During the winter dormancy period, significantly decrease irrigation. Allow the soil to dry out more between waterings to prevent root rot.
Water Quality: Use room-temperature water, preferably filtered or rainwater, as Calla lilies can be sensitive to chemicals like chlorine and fluoride found in tap water.
Maintain High Humidity: Calla lilies thrive in humid environments. To increase humidity indoors:
Signs of Dormancy: After flowering, the leaves of at home Calla lilies will start to yellow and eventually die back. This is a natural part of their growth cycle and indicates the onset of dormancy.
Dormancy Care:
Aphids: These tiny insects suck sap from the plant, causing stunted growth and yellowing leaves.
Spider Mites: These tiny arachnids also feed on plant sap, leaving behind a fine webbing.
Snails and Slugs: These slimy creatures love to munch on calla lily leaves and flowers, especially in damp conditions.
Root Rot: This fungal disease thrives in overly wet soil, causing the roots to rot and the plant to wilt.
Botrytis Blight (Gray Mold): This fungal disease causes gray mold to develop on leaves, stems, and flowers. It is more prevalent in humid conditions.
Bacterial Soft Rot: This bacterial disease causes the rhizomes (underground stems) to rot, leading to plant death.
A: Calla lilies grow best in full sun to partial shade. In warmer climates, they may benefit from some afternoon shade to prevent scorching. When planting calla lilies directly in the garden, choose a location with full sun or partial sun, depending on your climate.
A: Yes, calla lilies are well-suited for container gardening. Use a well-draining mix and a pot that is at least 12 inches wide. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and fertilize monthly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage new blooms and repot every 2-3 years.
A: After the first frost, when the foliage begins to wilt, dig up the rhizomes and allow them to dry in a cool, dry place. Store the rhizomes in a paper bag or cardboard box in a cool (45-50°F or 7-10°C), dry place until the danger of frost has passed in spring.
A: Yes, all parts of the calla lily plant contain calcium oxalate, which may cause severe irritation and swelling in the mouth and throat if ingested. Keep calla lilies away from children and pets, and wear gloves when handling them to avoid skin irritation.
A: Calla lilies can be susceptible to pests like aphids and spider mites, as well as diseases like bacterial soft rot. Regularly inspect your plants for signs of infestation or disease. If you notice any problems, treat them promptly with insecticidal soap or fungicide, following the instructions on the product label.
