Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
Renowned for their elegant, chalice-shaped blooms and vibrant colors, calla lilies are a favorite among flower enthusiasts. Despite their exotic appearance, these versatile plants are surprisingly easy to care for, making them a perfect choice for both novice and experienced gardeners.
This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of calla lily care, from planting to overwintering, ensuring your garden or home is graced with these stunning flowers for years to come. Whether you're drawn to their classic white varieties or prefer the bold hues of pink, yellow, or orange, this guide will equip you with the knowledge to cultivate thriving calla lilies.
The optimal time to plant Calla lily rhizomes outdoors is in spring, after the last frost has passed and the soil temperature has reached 60-65°F (15-18°C). This typically falls between April and May for most regions.
To get a head start, you can plant rhizomes indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost. Use pots with drainage holes and a quality mix.
Rich, well-draining soil with good moisture retention is ideal.
Calla lilies love consistent moisture. Water regularly, especially during active growth. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out slightly between watering.
Ideal temperatures range from 65-85°F (18-29°C). They appreciate moderate humidity, so misting leaves or using a pebble tray can be beneficial.
Provide at least 6 hours of sunlight daily for outdoor plants. At home plants prefer bright, indirect light.
Feed every 2-3 weeks during the growing season with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength.
Outdoor: During the growing season (spring and summer), fertilize your Calla lilies every 2-3 weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Dilute the fertilizer to half the recommended strength to avoid burning the roots. As the blooming period ends, gradually reduce fertilization.
In-house: These Calla lilies benefit from monthly fertilization during their active growth period. Use a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for flowering houseplants. Again, dilute to half strength and apply after watering to prevent fertilizer burn.
Outdoor: Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark, wood chips, or compost, around the base of the plant. Mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weed growth, and regulate soil temperature. Replenish the mulch layer as it decomposes.
Repotting Frequency: Calla lilies generally need repotting every 2-3 years or when they become rootbound (roots fill the pot). The best time for repotting is in early spring before the new growth begins.
Repotting Process:
Outdoor (Colder Climates): In regions with freezing temperatures, Calla lilies cannot survive the winter outdoors. Before the first frost, dig up the rhizomes, brush off excess soil, and allow them to dry for a few days. Store the rhizomes in a cool, dark, and dry place (45-50°F or 7-10°C) until spring.
Outdoor (Warmer Climates): In frost-free areas, Calla lilies can remain outdoors year-round. Simply cut back the foliage after it dies back naturally and provide less moisture during the winter dormancy period.
Indoor: These Calla lilies can be overwintered by reducing moisture and allowing the foliage to die back. Stop fertilizing during this period. Once the foliage has completely dried, you can either leave the rhizome in the pot or remove and store it in a cool, dry place until spring.
Well-Draining: Calla lilies are susceptible to root rot, so a well-draining mix is essential. Choose a mix formulated for flowering plants that contains ingredients like peat moss, perlite, or vermiculite to enhance drainage.
Nutrient-Rich: The mix should also be rich in organic matter to provide essential nutrients for growth and flowering. Consider adding compost or well-rotted manure to enrich the mix.
Slightly Acidic pH: Calla lilies prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0-6.5. You can test the pH of your mix and adjust it if necessary with lime or sulfur.
Regular Irrigation: Keep the potting mix consistently moist, but not soggy. Thoroughly hydrate the plant until water drains from the bottom of the pot. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out slightly between irrigation sessions.
Reduced Irrigation in Winter: During the winter dormancy period, significantly decrease irrigation. Allow the soil to dry out more between waterings to prevent root rot.
Water Quality: Use room-temperature water, preferably filtered or rainwater, as Calla lilies can be sensitive to chemicals like chlorine and fluoride found in tap water.
Maintain High Humidity: Calla lilies thrive in humid environments. To increase humidity indoors:
Signs of Dormancy: After flowering, the leaves of at home Calla lilies will start to yellow and eventually die back. This is a natural part of their growth cycle and indicates the onset of dormancy.
Dormancy Care:
Aphids: These tiny insects suck sap from the plant, causing stunted growth and yellowing leaves.
Spider Mites: These tiny arachnids also feed on plant sap, leaving behind a fine webbing.
Snails and Slugs: These slimy creatures love to munch on calla lily leaves and flowers, especially in damp conditions.
Root Rot: This fungal disease thrives in overly wet soil, causing the roots to rot and the plant to wilt.
Botrytis Blight (Gray Mold): This fungal disease causes gray mold to develop on leaves, stems, and flowers. It is more prevalent in humid conditions.
Bacterial Soft Rot: This bacterial disease causes the rhizomes (underground stems) to rot, leading to plant death.
A: Calla lilies grow best in full sun to partial shade. In warmer climates, they may benefit from some afternoon shade to prevent scorching. When planting calla lilies directly in the garden, choose a location with full sun or partial sun, depending on your climate.
A: Yes, calla lilies are well-suited for container gardening. Use a well-draining mix and a pot that is at least 12 inches wide. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and fertilize monthly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage new blooms and repot every 2-3 years.
A: After the first frost, when the foliage begins to wilt, dig up the rhizomes and allow them to dry in a cool, dry place. Store the rhizomes in a paper bag or cardboard box in a cool (45-50°F or 7-10°C), dry place until the danger of frost has passed in spring.
A: Yes, all parts of the calla lily plant contain calcium oxalate, which may cause severe irritation and swelling in the mouth and throat if ingested. Keep calla lilies away from children and pets, and wear gloves when handling them to avoid skin irritation.
A: Calla lilies can be susceptible to pests like aphids and spider mites, as well as diseases like bacterial soft rot. Regularly inspect your plants for signs of infestation or disease. If you notice any problems, treat them promptly with insecticidal soap or fungicide, following the instructions on the product label.
