A good luck plant is any house plant believed to bring good fortune, prosperity, or protection. In many traditions, plants are known to bring balance and positive energy into spaces, with certain species like the Money Tree plant, Chinese Money Plant, or Lucky Bamboo plant considered symbols of good luck. Feng Shui practitioners often recommend these plants to attract money, love, and good fortune, especially when they are placed in the home or office in specific directions.
Popular plants to attract money include the Money Tree plant, Chinese Money Plant, Jade Plant, and Pothos plants. These are often referred to as Feng Shui plants to attract wealth and good luck. Among the best Feng Shui plants, Lucky Bamboo (especially lucky bamboo 6 stalks), Jade, and Money Trees are known to bring prosperity and good luck.
Yes, Feng Shui can be translated as the “way of wind and water,” and Feng Shui lucky plants are believed to bring balance and energy flow indoors. Chinese Feng Shui emphasizes placing plants in your home in areas that welcome good chi (energy). Popular plants like Lucky Bamboo, Money Tree, and Pothos plants are best used as Feng Shui indoor plants to attract wealth and good luck to your home.
Peace Lilies, Orchids, and Bamboo Palms are excellent for home décor because they combine beauty with symbolic meaning. These plants are associated with luck and believed to bring peace, harmony, and prosperity. For a plant that symbolizes good fortune and enhances home décor, Money Trees and Chinese Money Plants are also excellent choices.
Plants like Lucky Bamboo, the Money Tree plant, and Orchids are traditional housewarming gift options because they are believed to bring good luck to your home and symbolize wealth, love, and good fortune. They’re also easy-to-grow plants that add good luck and positive energy when placed in the home.
Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
Gladiolus, with its tall, vibrant spikes of blossoms, is a favorite among gardeners who love dramatic, showy flowers. Known for their striking blooms, gladioli add vertical interest to gardens and are perfect for both borders and cutting gardens. These summer-blooming plants are easy to grow, requiring minimal maintenance while producing stunning flowers in a variety of colors.
Whether you're planting gladiolus for the first time or you're a seasoned gardener, this guide will cover everything you need to know to grow and care for these beautiful flowers.
There are hundreds of gladiolus cultivars, but a few stand out for their exceptional beauty and popularity. Here are some of the best varieties to consider for your garden:
This stunning variety features large, ruffled blooms in a delicate blend of pale pink and white with subtle hints of yellow. Its romantic color palette makes it a popular choice for weddings and formal arrangements. 'Mon Amour' grows up to 4 feet tall, making it ideal for creating vertical interest in garden beds.
A striking dwarf variety, 'Atom' produces bright red flowers with a distinctive white edge. It’s a favorite among gardeners who love bold, contrasting colors. Growing up to 2-3 feet tall, 'Atom' is perfect for smaller gardens or containers.
This variety is known for its beautiful, soft pink flowers with a creamy yellow throat. 'Priscilla' produces tall spikes up to 4 feet tall, and its pastel tones make it a wonderful addition to cottage gardens or borders.
For a splash of cool color in your garden, 'Blue Moon' offers deep violet-blue flowers with a hint of white at the throat. This tall variety grows up to 5 feet, making it an eye-catching centerpiece for any garden display.
'Peter Pears' is one of the most popular varieties due to its vibrant orange blooms with a peachy hue. The large, funnel-shaped flowers bloom on tall stems, making them excellent for cutting gardens and floral arrangements.
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Growing gladiolus from corms is the most common method, though they can also be grown from seeds (a rare practice). Here’s a detailed guide on how to plant gladiolus for a bountiful summer display.
Here are the growing requirements for gladiolus:
Gladiolus prefers well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Loamy soil is ideal, but sandy soil is also acceptable as long as it doesn’t retain too much moisture. It’s important to avoid clay soil, as it can lead to waterlogging and corm rot.
Consistent moisture is key to growing healthy gladiolus. Water deeply once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions, to keep the soil evenly moist. Be mindful of not letting the soil dry out completely, especially during bloom time, as this can affect flower production.
Gladiolus thrives in warm temperatures, with the optimal range being between 60°F and 85°F. In cooler climates, it's important to wait until all danger of frost has passed before planting. Gladiolus doesn’t require high humidity, but it can tolerate a variety of humidity levels as long as the soil remains well-draining.
Gladiolus requires full sun to produce the best blooms. Aim for at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. In regions with very hot summers, a bit of afternoon shade can help prevent the plants from overheating.
Choose a location with good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases. Gladiolus can be planted in flower beds, borders, or along fences, where the tall flower spikes can be supported by nearby plants or structures. In colder climates, consider planting in containers that can be moved indoors during winter.
To keep your gladiolus plants healthy and vibrant, here are some essential maintenance tips:
Feed gladiolus plants with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer about four weeks after planting. You can also apply a slow-release fertilizer when planting corms. Repeat applications every 4-6 weeks throughout the growing season to ensure healthy blooms.
Gladiolus doesn't require extensive pruning, but it’s important to remove spent blooms to encourage more flowering. Cut the flower stalks back to the ground after they have finished blooming to direct energy back to the corms for next year’s growth.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, around the base of the plants to retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and prevent weed growth. Mulching is especially important in hot, dry climates.
Gladiolus can be grown in large containers, but make sure the pots have adequate drainage. Use a light, well-draining potting mix and follow the same planting depth and spacing guidelines. Repot every year with fresh soil to prevent disease buildup and to replenish nutrients.
In colder regions (zones 6 and below), dig up gladiolus corms after the first frost. Gently lift the corms from the soil and allow them to dry in a cool, dry location for a few days. Once dried, remove the old corms and store the new ones in a paper bag or a box filled with peat moss. Store in a cool, dark place until replanting in spring.
Aphids feed on the sap of gladiolus leaves, causing yellowing and stunted growth. They also secrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold. Treat aphids with insecticidal soap or neem oil, and encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs to keep aphid populations in check.
Thrips are tiny insects that can cause significant damage to gladiolus flowers by feeding on the petals and leaves, leading to discoloration and deformed blooms. Insecticidal soaps, neem oil, or pyrethrin sprays can help control thrips infestations.
Spider mites are common in hot, dry conditions and cause stippling or speckling on the leaves. A strong blast of water or applications of horticultural oil can reduce their numbers.
Fusarium wilt and botrytis are common fungal diseases that affect gladiolus, leading to yellowing leaves and rotting corms. Prevent fungal diseases by ensuring good air circulation, proper drainage, and avoiding overhead watering. Fungicide treatments can help control severe infections.
Rust appears as orange or reddish-brown spots on the leaves and stems. It can be treated with fungicides and by removing infected leaves to prevent the spread of spores.
To enjoy gladiolus flowers indoors, harvest the flower spikes when the lower buds just begin to open. Cut the stems at a 45-degree angle in the morning when the flowers are hydrated. Place the stems in water immediately to prolong their freshness. Gladiolus flowers can last up to two weeks in a vase if properly cared for, making them a great choice for floral arrangements.
A: In colder zones (zones 7 and colder), dig up the gladiolus corms in late fall after the foliage has died back. Clean them off, remove and discard the old corms, and store the new corms in a cool, dry place until it's time to plant next spring.
A: In warmer climates (zones 8-10), you can leave gladiolus bulbs in the ground to perennialize. However, in colder zones, the corms need to be dug up to prevent frost damage.
A: Gladiolus plants often become top-heavy because of their tall flower spikes. To prevent them from bending or falling over, you may need to stake them. Planting them in groups can also help support the stems.
A: You can shop for gladiolus bulbs at local garden centers, nurseries, or online stores. Look for reputable sellers offering a variety of gladiolus species and colors to suit your garden.
A: In most climates, the last planting time for gladiolus is about 8 weeks before the first expected frost. In warmer zones, you can plant later in the season, but planting early summer allows you to enjoy blooms for a longer period.
