Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
While houseplants have always been a staple in interior design, I've only recently become obsessed with them. Sure, I've dabbled with growing herbs in the kitchen for cooking, but I'm talking about bringing the jungle indoors – with Monstera in the bedroom, Aloe on the tables, snake plants in the living room, and more.
Admittedly, it wasn't all smooth sailing at first. There were a few wilted leaves and brown spots along the way, but with a little trial and error (okay, maybe a lot of error), I've managed to create a thriving indoor jungle that brings me so much joy.
Now, I'm eager to share my passion and expertise with others. In this guide, I'll share some tried-and-true tips and insights to help you become a fully-fledged plant parent. So, if you’re starting your botanical journey, this article is sure to help you out.
When purchasing indoor plants, it's essential to buy them from a reputable and reliable store. Look for nurseries or garden centers known for their quality plants and knowledgeable staff, or you can buy from plant vendors that you know and trust. Of course, be sure to be picky! Give them a good once-over for signs of good health like strong growth, well-shaped leaves or buds, sturdy stems, and a healthy overall color and appearance.
Here's something to keep in mind: choose plants that match your lifestyle. If you're always on the go, go for low-maintenance indoor plants like the resilient snake plant or the easygoing spider plant. And if you're not sure which indoor plants are the perfect fit for your home, why not chat with the pros at your favorite plant shop for some expert advice?
Ensuring your indoor plants thrive starts with providing them a comfortable home for their roots. So, choosing the right pot and potting soil mix is crucial for the health and growth of your indoor plants. If you're new to indoor planting and thinking of selecting pots based solely on their appearance, think again! Trust me, I've been there, and it doesn't end well. Opt for pots with proper drainage holes to prevent water buildup. When it comes to potting soil mix, go for a high-quality blend that's well-draining and packed with nutrients. You'll find a variety of options available on Amazon or at your local garden shop.
Each plant has its own unique light preferences, so it's important to delve into the specific needs of your green friends. For instance, cacti and succulents thrive in direct sunlight, while orchids and Anthurium prefer the more subtle touch of indirect sunlight. On the other hand, snake plants and ZZ plants are quite content with lower light levels. It's all about finding that sweet spot—avoiding too much or too little light.
Plants that don't get enough light are more likely to attract pests and fall ill. If you're finding it tough to give them the light they need, consider using artificial lighting, especially during the darker winter months. You don't need fancy bulbs or LEDs for your everyday houseplants, so there's no need to spend a fortune on a complex setup. A simple fluorescent light or a "daylight" bulb with an equivalent of at least 60 watts will provide enough extra light for most indoor plants to flourish.
For goodness' sake, please resist the urge to move your plants around too much. I learned this lesson the hard way. Plants are creatures of habit and don't appreciate being shuffled around like furniture. They need time to acclimate to their surroundings, so try to keep them in one spot as much as possible. And whatever you do, don't subject them to temperature whiplash. Moving a plant from a cozy corner to a blazing sunbeam or vice versa can seriously stress them out. If you absolutely must relocate your green friend, do it gradually. Start by introducing it to the new spot for just an hour a day, then gradually increase the time until it's fully settled in.
Keeping your plants happy indoors is all about creating a cozy little habitat that mimics their natural environment. Tropical plants, in particular, thrive on high humidity and plenty of bright, indirect light. But let's face it, most homes aren't exactly Amazonian rainforests, especially in the winter months.
So, what's a plant parent to do? Here are a few tricks I've picked up to keep my indoor greenery thriving during the chilly season:
First off, forget about sticking to a strict watering schedule. Your plants aren't robots, after all! Each houseplant has its own unique watering needs, so tune in to their unique needs and water them when they're actually thirsty. To check if your plant is thirsty, simply stick your finger into the soil. If the soil looks dark and feels damp, then it's probably fine without water. But if it feels dry, then it's likely time to give it a drink.
Keep this in mind when watering:
How to properly water indoor plants:
While plants use photosynthesis to whip up the sugars they need to thrive, they also crave a more direct form of nourishment to fuel their growth. Like watering, there's no one-size-fits-all rule for fertilizing: It hinges on the plant's growth rate, age, and the time of year. Most houseplants kick into high gear during spring and summer, so that's the prime time to give them a boost with some fertilizer. When the days get shorter in fall and winter, most houseplants don't need much, if any, fertilizer.
A balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) does the trick for houseplants, but if you want more lush foliage, go for a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen ratio. For those beautiful blooms, opt for a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus ratio.
Grooming and pruning your houseplants is the key to keeping them looking tidy and fabulous. So, grab an herb scissors or pruning shears and snip away any dead foliage and spent flowers to encourage new growth and prevents any pesky diseases from creeping in. While you're at it, trim away any dead, yellow, brown, or withered leaves.
Just as you wouldn't want dirty windows blocking your view, dusty leaves can't do their job properly either. Keep your indoor air fresh and oxygen levels up by giving your plant's leaves a gentle wipe with a soft, damp cloth to remove dust and buildup. And here's a pro tip: skip the leaf shine products—they might make your leaves look good temporarily, but they can clog up those precious leaf pores in the long run.
If your plant looks like it's bursting out of its pot and you notice slowed growth, consider moving it to a slightly roomier one. But hey, if you'd rather keep it in the same pot, just trim off some of the roots with a sharp knife and replant it using fresh potting soil. Now, take it slow and steady—when repotting, move up one pot size at a time. Oversized pots can result in excess soil and water, which may lead to fungal disease and root rot. And while you're at it, you can also divide those with multiple stems to create new plants.
A: When repotting, gently loosen the roots, choose a pot that's slightly larger than the current one, and use fresh, well-draining soil. Water the plant after repotting and place it in a location with appropriate light conditions to aid in the transition.
A: Indoor plants such as peace lilies, ferns, Chinese evergreens, and cast-iron plants are well-suited for low-light conditions. These plants can thrive in areas with minimal natural light and are ideal for brightening up dimly lit spaces.
A: Natural remedies for plant pests include using neem oil, insecticidal soaps, or introducing beneficial insects such as ladybugs or predatory mites to control pest populations. Additionally, physical removal of pests and maintaining good plant hygiene can help manage infestations.
