Growing Cilantro 101: Everything a Beginner Needs to Know

Frequently Asked Questions:
1. Will vinegar kill all weeds?
Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
2. Can DIY weed killers harm grass and plants?
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
3. Is homemade weed killer safe for pets?
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
4. How long does it take for natural weed killers to work?
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
5. Are these solutions permanent?
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Q: Can I grow a banana tree indoors?
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Q: Do banana plants grow from seeds?
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Q: How long does it take for bananas to fruit?
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Q: Do banana trees die after producing fruit?
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Q: Can bananas survive winter?
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
Q: How long does it take for sunflowers to bloom?
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
Q: What are the best sunflowers to grow?
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
Q: How do I plant sunflower seeds?
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.

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Cilantro, a beloved herb known for its bright, citrusy flavor and used in cuisines around the world, can be easily grown in your own home. Whether you have a spacious garden or a sunny windowsill, cultivating cilantro is a rewarding endeavor.
This guide will walk you through the simple steps of planting cilantro, from selecting the right seeds and preparing the soil to ensuring optimal growing conditions and harvesting your fresh herbs. Discover the joys of growing cilantro indoors and enjoying its flavorful leaves in your culinary creations.
Required Materials for Growing Cilantro Indoors

Seeds (coriander seeds)
Cilantro is the leafy part of the coriander plant, and the seeds are what you'll plant to begin the growing process. Choose slow-bolting varieties for a longer harvest period. These can be purchased from garden centers, nurseries, or online suppliers.
Container (with drainage holes)
A container with adequate drainage is crucial to prevent root rot, a common issue with overwatering. Opt for a pot with drainage holes and a saucer underneath to collect excess water. A 6-8 inch pot is sufficient for a single plant.
Potting mix (well-draining, nutrient-rich)
Cilantro thrives in well-draining soil that retains moisture without becoming waterlogged. Choose a pre-mixed potting mix formulated for herbs or vegetables, as it contains the necessary nutrients for optimal growth.
Watering can or spray bottle
Consistent moisture is important for cilantro, but overwatering can have serious consequences. A watering can with a gentle rose attachment or a garden spray bottle allows for precise watering without disturbing the seeds or young seedlings.
Step-by-Step Guide to Growing Cilantro from Seed Indoors

Seed Preparation
- Crushing (Optional): While not mandatory, gently crushing the seeds with a mortar and pestle or the back of a spoon can help break down the outer hull and speed up germination.
Soaking (Optional):
Soaking the seeds in room temperature water for 8-12 hours before planting can further enhance germination rates.
Planting
- Container: Choose a pot with drainage holes and a saucer to catch excess water.
- Potting Mix: Fill the pot with a well-draining, nutrient-rich potting mix formulated for herbs or vegetables.
- Sowing: Sow the seeds about ¼ inch deep and 2-3 inches apart. Cover with a thin layer of soil and gently press down.
Germination
- Moisture: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Misting with a spray bottle can be helpful.
- Temperature: Cilantro seeds germinate best in cool temperatures, ideally between 50-70 degrees Fahrenheit (10-21 degrees Celsius).
- Timeline: Germination usually takes 7-14 days.
Early Growth
- Thinning: Once the seedlings have a few sets of true leaves, thin them out, leaving the strongest ones spaced 4-6 inches apart.
- Light: Provide bright, indirect sunlight for at least 6 hours a day. If natural light is limited, use a grow light.
Ongoing Care
- Light: Maintain the 6 hours of daily light exposure.
- Water: Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, ensuring good drainage to prevent root rot.
- Fertilizer: Feed every 2-3 weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength.
- Soil: Monitor soil moisture and nutrient levels. Repot if the plant becomes rootbound.
- Temperature & Humidity: Keep temperatures between 50-80 degrees Fahrenheit (10-27 degrees Celsius). Cilantro prefers moderate humidity.
- Pests & Diseases: Watch for aphids or fungal diseases, and address them promptly.
Pruning and Propagation
- Pruning: Regularly harvest leaves to encourage bushier growth. Pinch off any flower buds to prolong the harvest.
- Propagation: You can take stem cuttings and root them in water to create new plants.
Harvesting Cilantro

When to Harvest
- Early Harvesting: You can start snipping leaves as soon as your cilantro plant reaches about 6 inches tall.
- Optimal Flavor: The most flavorful leaves are young and tender. Harvest them before the plant starts to flower (bolt).
- Regular Harvesting: Frequent harvesting actually encourages bushier growth and delays bolting, giving you a longer harvest window.
How to Harvest
- Choose Your Leaves: Select outer, mature leaves or stems. Avoid harvesting the tender inner growth, as this is where new leaves will develop.
- Cut or Pinch: You can use clean scissors or your fingers to harvest.
- Scissors: Snip stems about 1-2 inches above the soil line.
- Pinching: Pinch off individual leaves or small stems at their base.
- Harvest Amount: Don't take more than 1/3 of the plant at a time. This allows the cilantro to continue growing and producing new leaves.
- Frequency: Harvest regularly, every few days or weekly, depending on your needs and the growth rate of your plant.
Signs Your Cilantro is Ready to Bolt
- Flower Buds: The appearance of small, white flower buds is a sign that your cilantro is about to bolt.
- Leggy Growth: The plant may become tall and spindly.
- Stronger Flavor: The leaves may develop a stronger, more pungent flavor.
Tips for Harvesting Bolting Cilantro
- Collect Seeds: If your cilantro does bolt, let the flowers mature and collect the seeds (coriander). You can use these for cooking or save them for planting next season.
- Replant: Consider starting a new batch of cilantro from seed to ensure a continuous supply of fresh leaves.
Repotting Cilantro

When to Repot Cilantro
- Rootbound: The most common reason to repot is if your cilantro becomes rootbound. This means the roots have filled the pot and are circling the bottom or pushing through the drainage holes.
- Slowed Growth: If you notice your cilantro's growth has slowed or stopped, even with proper care, it might be rootbound and in need of a larger pot container.
- Wilting: Frequent wilting, even after watering, can be a sign of rootboundness. The roots can no longer absorb enough moisture to support the plant.
Choosing a New Pot
- Size: Select one that's 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one. This provides enough space for the roots to spread out without being excessive.
- Drainage: Ensure that it has drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
- Material: Plastic, terracotta, or ceramic ones are all suitable for cilantro. Choose one that suits your aesthetic and budget.
How to Repot Cilantro
- Prepare the New Pot: Fill it about 1/3 full with fresh, well-draining mix.
- Remove the Cilantro: Gently loosen the soil around the edges. Carefully turn it upside down, supporting the cilantro at the base, and slide it out.
- Inspect the Roots: Check for any damaged or rotting roots and trim them away with clean scissors. If the roots are severely entangled, gently loosen them with your fingers.
- Place in New Pot: Position the cilantro in the center, making sure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Fill in the gaps around the root ball with mix, gently firming it down.
- Water Thoroughly: Water the repotted cilantro thoroughly, allowing excess water to drain away.
Common Pests and Diseases

Pests
Aphids
- Description: Tiny, pear-shaped insects that cluster on leaves and stems, sucking sap and weakening the plant.
- Signs: Yellowing or curling leaves, sticky residue (honeydew) on foliage.
- Prevention: Ensure good air circulation, avoid overfertilizing, and introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs.
- Treatment: Spray with a strong jet of water to dislodge aphids, or use insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Spider Mites
- Description: Tiny, spider-like pests that spin fine webs on the underside of leaves.
- Signs: Yellowing or stippled leaves, fine webbing.
- Prevention: Increase humidity, mist leaves regularly, and avoid dusty conditions.
- Treatment: Spray with water or insecticidal soap, focusing on the undersides of leaves.
Whiteflies
- Description: Small, white, moth-like insects that congregate on the undersides of leaves.
- Signs: Yellowing leaves, sticky residue, and tiny white insects flying when disturbed.
- Prevention: Use yellow sticky traps to attract and capture whiteflies.
- Treatment: Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil, repeating applications as needed.
Diseases
Damping Off
- Description: A fungal disease that affects seedlings, causing them to rot at the base and collapse.
- Signs: Seedlings that fail to emerge or suddenly wilt and die.
- Prevention: Use sterile mix, avoid overwatering, and ensure good air circulation.
- Treatment: Once damping off occurs, it's difficult to treat. Remove affected seedlings and start a new batch.
Powdery Mildew
- Description: A fungal disease that appears as a white, powdery coating on leaves and stems.
- Signs: White powdery spots, leaves may become distorted and yellow.
- Prevention: Avoid overcrowding plants, ensure good air circulation, and avoid overhead watering.
- Treatment: Apply a fungicide specifically for powdery mildew, following label instructions.
FAQs: Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Cilantro vs. Coriander: What's the difference, and how do I grow Cilantro for fresh leaves?
A: Cilantro and coriander come from the same plant (Coriandrum sativum). Cilantro refers to the leaves and stems, while coriander refers to the dried seeds. To enjoy fresh cilantro, you need to grow the plant from seed. It's an easy plant to grow both indoors and outdoors. Simply sow cilantro seeds directly into well-draining potting mix or garden soil, provide ample sunlight, and water regularly (about 1 inch of water per week).
Q: What does Cilantro taste like? Why do some people say it tastes like soap, and what are some alternatives?
A: Cilantro has a unique, citrusy, and slightly peppery flavor that many people love. However, some individuals have a genetic variation that makes cilantro taste like soap. If you're one of them, don't worry! There are plenty of alternative herbs to use, such as parsley, mint, basil, or even Vietnamese coriander (rau ram).
Q: What are the best growing conditions for Cilantro? Can I grow Cilantro in a hot climate?
A: Cilantro prefers cooler temperatures and full sun, but it can struggle in hot climates. If you live in a hot area, try growing cilantro indoors or provide afternoon shade outdoors. Ensure well-draining soil, consistent moisture (about 1 inch of water per week), and good air circulation to prevent diseases. Remember that cilantro is a fast-growing annual, so it may bolt (flower) quickly in hot weather.
Q: When and how do I harvest Cilantro? How can I extend my Cilantro harvest throughout the growing season?
A: You can start harvesting cilantro leaves when the plants are about 6 inches tall. Snip or pinch off outer leaves regularly to encourage bushier growth and delay bolting. To extend your cilantro harvest, you can sow new cilantro seeds every 2-3 weeks throughout the growing season.
Q: How can I preserve fresh Cilantro? Can I harvest the seed (Coriander)?
A: There are several ways to preserve cilantro: freezing, drying, or making pesto are popular options. You can also store coriander seeds for later use in cooking. To harvest coriander seeds, let the cilantro flowers mature and dry on the plant. Once the seeds turn brown, collect them and store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark place.