A good luck plant is any house plant believed to bring good fortune, prosperity, or protection. In many traditions, plants are known to bring balance and positive energy into spaces, with certain species like the Money Tree plant, Chinese Money Plant, or Lucky Bamboo plant considered symbols of good luck. Feng Shui practitioners often recommend these plants to attract money, love, and good fortune, especially when they are placed in the home or office in specific directions.
Popular plants to attract money include the Money Tree plant, Chinese Money Plant, Jade Plant, and Pothos plants. These are often referred to as Feng Shui plants to attract wealth and good luck. Among the best Feng Shui plants, Lucky Bamboo (especially lucky bamboo 6 stalks), Jade, and Money Trees are known to bring prosperity and good luck.
Yes, Feng Shui can be translated as the “way of wind and water,” and Feng Shui lucky plants are believed to bring balance and energy flow indoors. Chinese Feng Shui emphasizes placing plants in your home in areas that welcome good chi (energy). Popular plants like Lucky Bamboo, Money Tree, and Pothos plants are best used as Feng Shui indoor plants to attract wealth and good luck to your home.
Peace Lilies, Orchids, and Bamboo Palms are excellent for home décor because they combine beauty with symbolic meaning. These plants are associated with luck and believed to bring peace, harmony, and prosperity. For a plant that symbolizes good fortune and enhances home décor, Money Trees and Chinese Money Plants are also excellent choices.
Plants like Lucky Bamboo, the Money Tree plant, and Orchids are traditional housewarming gift options because they are believed to bring good luck to your home and symbolize wealth, love, and good fortune. They’re also easy-to-grow plants that add good luck and positive energy when placed in the home.
Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
If you’ve ever seen me swooning over a beautiful bloom, you know my love for gorgeous flowers is pretty much a given. Today, I’m excited to dive into a topic that’s near and dear to my heart: geraniums! These vibrant and charming flowers are one of those plants you’ll definitely want to have in your garden.
Geraniums are a popular choice for gardeners for good reason. They’re hardy, low-maintenance, and come in a variety of colors and sizes. Plus, they’re great for attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies to your garden. Here’s a quick rundown of what you need to know about these fabulous flowers:
Alright, now that we’ve got the basics covered, let's talk about the different types of geraniums you can invite into your garden. Geraniums come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and even smells! Here are some popular varieties you might consider:
These are the classic geraniums you often see in many gardens. They boast large, round flower heads that come in a riot of colors—reds, pinks, whites, and even bi-colors. One of their distinctive features is their leaves, which have unique, horseshoe-shaped markings that make them easy to identify.
Perfect for hanging baskets and window boxes, these geraniums have trailing stems that cascade beautifully. Their ivy-like leaves and abundant flowers create a lush, flowing effect that’s hard to beat.
Also known as Martha Washington geraniums, these divas have large, showy flowers that demand attention. Their blooms often have striking patterns and rich, deep colors, making them the drama queens of the geranium world.
If you’re into fragrance, these are your go-to geraniums. Their leaves emit delightful scents ranging from lemon and mint to rose and even chocolate! While their flowers may be smaller and less flashy, their aromatic foliage more than makes up for it, perfect for adding a sensory experience to your garden.
Geraniums can be planted both indoors and outdoors. Here’s what you need to know:
Alright, let's get down to the nitty-gritty of planting geraniums. Whether you're starting from scratch with seeds or getting a head start with seedlings, I'll walk you through the process step by step. Ready? Let's do this!
Begin by starting your seeds indoors about 8-10 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area. This timing is crucial because it gives the seeds enough time to develop into healthy seedlings before they are transplanted outdoors. To start, gather some small pots or seed trays and fill them with a seed-starting mix, which is lighter and finer than regular potting soil. Plant your geranium seeds in the mix, pressing them gently into the soil and covering them lightly. You want to ensure the seeds are just barely covered because they need light to germinate. Lightly water the soil to keep it moist but not soggy, as too much water can cause the seeds to rot.
Once your seeds are planted, maintaining the right temperature is key to successful germination. Geranium seeds prefer a warm environment, ideally around 70-75°F (21-24°C). Place your seed trays in a warm spot in your home. If you live in a cooler area or your home is a bit chilly, consider using a seedling heat mat to keep the soil at a consistent temperature. Geranium seeds typically germinate within 7-14 days, so be patient. During this time, keep an eye on the soil moisture and ensure it remains consistently damp but not waterlogged.
As soon as the seeds sprout, they will need plenty of light to grow strong and healthy. Place the seedlings under grow lights or in a sunny window where they can get at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If you’re using grow lights, position them just a few inches above the seedlings and adjust as they grow to prevent them from becoming leggy. Adequate light is essential to prevent the seedlings from becoming weak and spindly.
After your seedlings have developed at least two sets of true leaves and all danger of frost has passed, it’s time to move them outdoors. But don’t rush this process; seedlings need to be hardened off first. This involves gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions over a week. Start by placing them outside in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their exposure to sunlight and outdoor temperatures. After a week of hardening off, they should be ready to be transplanted into your garden. Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil. Dig a hole for each seedling, ensuring they are spaced about 12-24 inches apart to give them room to grow. Place the seedling in the hole, fill in with soil, and water well.
When selecting seedlings from your local nursery, look for strong, healthy plants. Avoid any that appear wilted, have yellowing leaves, or show signs of pests or diseases. Healthy seedlings will give you the best start and are more likely to thrive once planted in your garden.
Before planting, prepare your garden bed or containers. Geraniums prefer well-draining soil, so if your garden soil is heavy or clay-like, mix in some compost or sand to improve drainage. Loosen the soil to a depth of about 12 inches and mix in some compost to add nutrients. This will create a welcoming environment for your new plants.
Dig a hole for each seedling that is slightly larger than the root ball. Carefully remove the seedling from its pot, gently loosening the roots if they appear tangled or compacted. Place the seedling in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Fill in around the seedling with soil, pressing gently to eliminate air pockets. Space each plant about 12-24 inches apart, depending on the variety, to allow for adequate growth.
After planting, give your seedlings a good drink of water to help them settle in. Water the soil around the plants thoroughly, ensuring the moisture reaches the root zone. Continue to water regularly, keeping the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during the first few weeks as the plants establish themselves.
Alright, now that we've got your geraniums planted, let's talk about what they need to grow into stunning, healthy plants. Here's everything you need to know:
Keeping your geraniums in top shape is simple with a few easy care tips.
Even with top-notch care, pests and diseases can sometimes sneak in. But don’t worry! Here’s a simple guide to help you tackle these issues and keep your geraniums in tip-top shape.
A: Definitely! One fascinating variety is the ‘Chocolate Mint’ geranium, which has a chocolatey aroma and is often used in culinary applications. Another is the ‘Mrs. Pollock’ geranium, known for its striking multicolored leaves that resemble a painter’s palette.
A: Some geranium varieties, particularly the scented-leaf types, are used in traditional medicine for their soothing properties. For instance, the leaves of scented geraniums may be used in herbal teas or as a natural remedy for minor ailments. Always consult with a healthcare provider before using plants for medicinal purposes.
A: Yes! Some geraniums, especially those with strong scents like the citronella or scented-leaf varieties, are known to help repel insects like mosquitoes. Planting these around your outdoor spaces can be a natural way to keep bugs at bay.
