Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
If you're looking for an easy-to-care-for houseplant that thrives in various conditions, pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is an excellent choice. Known for its trailing vines and lush, heart-shaped leaves, this low-maintenance plant is a favorite among both beginner and seasoned plant enthusiasts. In this guide, we'll cover essential pothos care tips to keep your plant thriving, whether you have a classic Golden Pothos, vibrant Neon Pothos, or cascading Ivy-like varieties. Plus, we'll explore common issues—like why pothos leaves turn yellow—and how to fix them, ensuring your plant stays lush and vibrant year-round.
Pothos plants come in various types, each with unique leaf colors and patterns. Some popular varieties include:
One of the most popular and widely recognized pothos varieties, the Golden Pothos features heart-shaped leaves with vibrant green and yellow variegation. It is an excellent low-maintenance houseplant that thrives in a variety of lighting conditions, from low light to bright indirect light. It grows quickly and can trail or climb with proper support, making it a favorite for hanging baskets or trellises.
This variety has solid deep-green leaves, making it an ideal choice for low-light environments. Unlike variegated pothos, which require more light to maintain their patterns, the Jade Pothos can thrive even in dim corners of a room. Its lush, uniform foliage gives it a classic, elegant look, and its hardy nature makes it one of the easiest pothos types to care for.
Known for its stunning white and green marbled variegation, the Marble Queen Pothos requires bright indirect light to maintain its striking patterns. This variety tends to grow slower than Golden Pothos due to its higher amount of white variegation, which reduces its chlorophyll production. Regular pruning helps maintain a bushy appearance, and its cascading vines look beautiful in hanging planters or on shelves.
As the name suggests, this variety boasts bright, neon-green foliage that adds a vibrant pop of color to any space. The young leaves often start with a more intense yellow-green hue and gradually deepen as they mature. Neon Pothos thrives in medium to bright indirect light but can also adapt to lower light conditions, though its color may become slightly duller. Its bold, luminous leaves make it a great statement plant in any indoor setting.
A rare and highly sought-after variety, the Manjula Pothos has uniquely wavy leaves with a mix of cream, white, silver, and green variegation. Unlike other pothos, its leaves have a broader and more irregular shape, with each leaf displaying a different pattern. It requires bright indirect light to maintain its variegation and grows at a moderate pace. Due to its rarity, it is often considered a collector's plant and adds an artistic touch to indoor gardens.
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Pothos thrives in light, well-draining soil that allows excess water to escape easily, preventing root rot. A high-quality indoor potting mix works well, especially when combined with perlite or sand to improve aeration. Avoid using heavy clay-based soils, as they retain too much moisture and can lead to soggy roots, which may cause fungal issues. If repotting, choose a container with drainage holes to further support healthy root development.
Proper watering is essential for a thriving pothos plant. Water your pothos every 1-2 weeks, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can lead to root rot and yellowing leaves, while underwatering may cause the plant to droop. If the leaves appear limp and wilted, it’s a sign the plant needs water. However, if they turn yellow and feel mushy, reduce watering frequency. Using room-temperature, filtered water can help prevent mineral buildup in the soil.
Pothos plants prefer a temperature range of 65-85°F (18-29°C), making them well-suited for most indoor environments. While they can tolerate slight temperature fluctuations, avoid exposing them to temperatures below 50°F (10°C), as cold stress can stunt growth and damage leaves. In terms of humidity, pothos thrives in moderate to high humidity levels but is adaptable to drier air. If your home has particularly dry conditions, especially during winter, you can mist the plant occasionally, place a pebble tray with water nearby, or use a humidifier to maintain optimal moisture levels.
Pothos flourishes in bright, indirect sunlight, which promotes healthy growth and vibrant foliage. While it can tolerate low-light conditions, prolonged exposure to dim lighting may cause variegated varieties to lose their distinctive patterns, turning solid green. Be mindful of placing your pothos near windows with direct sun exposure, as intense sunlight can scorch the leaves, causing them to turn brown and crispy. If growing in a low-light area, consider rotating the plant occasionally to encourage even growth and prevent legginess.
During the growing season, which spans spring and summer, pothos plants benefit from regular feeding every 4-6 weeks. A balanced liquid fertilizer, diluted to half strength, provides essential nutrients that promote healthy foliage and robust growth. Over-fertilization can lead to salt buildup in the soil, so it’s best to follow recommended guidelines and flush the soil occasionally with water to prevent any nutrient imbalances. As growth naturally slows in the cooler months of fall and winter, fertilization should be reduced or stopped altogether to avoid stressing the plant.
Pruning is essential to keeping pothos plants lush and well-shaped. Trimming long, leggy vines encourages fuller, bushier growth by redirecting energy to new shoots. Regularly removing yellowing, damaged, or dead leaves improves the plant’s overall appearance and prevents potential disease spread. When pruning, always use sterilized scissors or pruning shears to avoid introducing infections. Snipped vines can also be propagated in water or soil to create new plants, making pruning a great way to maintain and expand your pothos collection.
Mulching can help regulate soil moisture and temperature for pothos plants, particularly when grown in outdoor containers or warm indoor environments. A thin layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark, coconut coir, or sphagnum moss, can retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and minimize soil compaction. However, it's important to avoid over-mulching, as excessive moisture retention can lead to root rot. Keep the mulch layer about half an inch away from the plant's base to prevent fungal issues and ensure proper air circulation.
Repotting is necessary every 1-2 years or when the plant outgrows its container, indicated by roots emerging from the drainage holes or stunted growth. To repot, start by selecting a new pot that is 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one, ensuring it has adequate drainage. Gently remove the plant from its old container, carefully loosening compacted roots to encourage healthy growth in fresh soil. Use a well-draining potting mix, such as one containing peat moss and perlite, to provide optimal aeration and moisture retention. After repotting, water the plant thoroughly and place it in bright, indirect light to help it adjust to its new home.
Pothos plants are sensitive to cold temperatures and should be kept indoors during the winter months, especially in regions with harsh climates. Sudden temperature changes, such as exposure to drafts from windows or doors, can stress the plant and cause leaf drop. Similarly, placing pothos near heating vents can lead to dehydration and browning leaf tips. To keep your pothos healthy during winter, maintain a stable indoor temperature between 60-75°F (16-24°C) and ensure moderate humidity by misting the plant occasionally or using a humidifier if needed.
Pothos, also known as Devil’s Ivy, is an indoor plant prized for its low maintenance and trailing vines. It gets the nickname Devil’s Ivy because it’s one of the easiest houseplants to grow and can survive in low light, making it difficult to kill.
If your pothos leaves are turning yellow, it’s best not to let the plant sit in overly wet soil. Leaves turn yellow due to overwatering, poor drainage, or lack of light. Make sure your pothos soil is well-draining and allow the soil to dry out between waterings.
Yes, pothos is toxic to cats and dogs if ingested due to calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause vomiting and mouth irritation.
