Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
Having grown up in India, ginger holds a special place in my heart (and my kitchen!). From spicing up curries to brewing soothing teas, its versatility knows no bounds. So, when I moved to New Jersey, I brought a piece of home with me by starting my own indoor ginger garden. If you'd like to learn how to do plant this root crop indoors, you're in the right place.
Alright, so let's talk ginger. There are a few different types floating around, but the ones you'll likely come across are culinary ginger and ornamental ginger.
Culinary ginger is the one you'll find in your spice rack or at the grocery store. It's got that signature spicy kick and is a staple ingredient in dishes from all over the world, especially in Asian cooking.
Then there's ornamental ginger. This one's all about looks. It's grown for its beautiful flowers and foliage, making it a real head-turner in the garden. But here's the catch—it's strictly for show, not for munching on.
Growing ginger at home offers a bunch of perks that are hard to resist. For starters, you’ll have easy access to it, no matter the season. Plus, ginger doubles as a natural air purifier, making your indoor space not just greener but fresher too. And let's not forget how low-key ginger plants are—they're the definition of low-maintenance, asking for little but giving a lot in return.
Bringing ginger indoors also puts you in the driver's seat when it comes to its growing environment. You call the shots on how much light, water, and TLC your ginger plant gets, which means you're set up for success from the get-go.
So, whether you're looking to spice up your cooking or simply want to add a touch of green to your space, growing ginger is a no-brainer. It's easy, it's rewarding, and it's bound to add a little extra zest to your indoor oasis.
To grow your own ginger, start with fresh, plump, and firm ginger rhizomes from your local nursery or grocery store. Look for one that is plump and firm with several eye buds. The eye buds are small points on the rhizome that will eventually sprout into shoots. Make sure that it's healthy and free from any soft or mushy spots.
To grow gingers, you'll need the following materials:
Next, you need to soak the rhizomes in lukewarm water overnight to help them sprout faster.
While waiting for the soaked rhizomes, start preparing your soil and container.
Choose a spacious pot with good drainage to accommodate your growing ginger roots. Then, opt for a well-draining potting mix that's rich in organic matter, such as a blend of potting soil and compost. You can also add perlite or sand to the soil to improve drainage.
Fill your chosen pot or container with potting mix, leaving 1-2 inches of space at the top.
Once the soil is prepared, it's time to plant the ginger rhizomes.
Start by placing your soaked ginger rhizomes horizontally on top of the potting mix, with the buds facing upwards. Cover them with a thin layer of soil, ensuring they're snug but not buried too deep. I recommend you gently press down on the soil to ensure good contact with the rhizomes.
Give your newly planted rhizomes a good drink of water, ensuring the soil is evenly moist but not waterlogged.
Finally, place your ginger plant in a warm, sunny spot with indirect sunlight, such as a windowsill or patio. Ginger loves warmth and humidity, so keep it away from cold drafts and dry air.
Now that your ginger plant is happily nestled in its new home, it's time to show it some love with regular maintenance. Here's what you'll need to do:
It's important that you keep the soil consistently moist but avoid overwatering as it can lead to root rot, so be sure to let the soil dry out a bit between watering.
What I do is I water my ginger plant once a week, but the frequency may vary depending on the humidity level and temperature of your home. Here's a tip: give the top inch of soil a little poke. If it feels dry to the touch, that's your cue to break out the watering can.
To keep your ginger plant in tip-top shape, make sure it gets plenty of bright, indirect sunlight. I like to park mine by a window that gets some morning rays but stays shady in the afternoon. And when it comes to temperature, aim for that sweet spot between 68°F and 77°F (20°C to 25°C). Just steer clear of any chilly drafts or hot blasts from heating vents—they can stress out your ginger.
To promote healthy growth, I fertilize my ginger plant once a month with a balanced fertilizer. You can also use a slow-release fertilizer for convenience. Be sure to follow the instructions on the fertilizer packaging and avoid over-fertilizing, as this can cause damage to the plant. It's also important to flush the soil with water every few months to prevent salt buildup from the fertilizer.
Keep your ginger plant spick and span by snipping away any yellowed or wilted leaves as necessary. This not only keeps things looking neat but also promotes overall plant health.
And here's a fun fact: as your ginger plant grows, it might start sending out new shoots or "pups." You can gently scoop these pups away from the main plant and replant them to start a whole new generation of ginger plants.
Ah, the moment you've been waiting for—harvest time! Here's how to know when your ginger is ready to harvest:
Ginger typically takes 8-10 months to reach maturity, so be patient and wait for signs of growth, such as lush green foliage and healthy-looking rhizomes.
When your ginger plant is mature, you'll notice the rhizomes pushing up through the soil surface. Carefully dig around the base of the plant to check the size and color of the rhizomes.
When the ginger plant is mature, the leaves will start to turn yellow and dry out. This is a sign that the plant is ready to be harvested.
To harvest, gently loosen the soil around the base of the plant and carefully lift the entire rhizomes out of the ground. Trim off any excess roots and foliage, leaving a few inches of stem attached to each rhizome.
Once you have harvested your ginger, you will want to store it properly to ensure it stays fresh and flavorful.
First, remove any excess dirt from the ginger rhizome and gently wash it in cool water. Then, allow it to dry completely.
Next, wrap the ginger in a paper towel and place it in a plastic bag. Make sure to remove as much air as possible from the bag before sealing it.
Finally, store the ginger in the refrigerator. It should keep for several weeks.
Alternatively, you can freeze ginger for longer-term storage. Simply peel and chop the ginger into small pieces, then place them in a freezer bag. When you're ready to use the ginger, simply remove the amount you need and return the rest to the freezer.
Too much water can lead to root rot and other fungal diseases, so be sure to water your ginger plant sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings.
Ginger plants thrive in bright, indirect sunlight, so be sure to place yours in a sunny spot where it can soak up plenty of rays. Without enough light, your ginger plant may become leggy and weak.
Good drainage is essential for healthy ginger plants, so be sure to choose a pot or container with plenty of drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
Avoid planting multiple ginger rhizomes too close together in the same pot, as this can lead to overcrowding and competition for nutrients. Give each rhizome lots of room to spread out and grow.
Keep a close eye on your ginger plant for signs of pests or disease and take prompt action to address any issues before they get out of hand.
A: Not necessarily. Ginger plants can be grown in pots or containers, making them suitable for small indoor spaces like apartments or condos.
A: Yes, you may need to repot your indoor ginger plant every year or two as it outgrows its container. Choose a slightly larger pot each time to accommodate the growing roots.
A: While ginger leaves and stems are edible, they are not commonly used in cooking. Instead, focus on harvesting the rhizomes for their aromatic flavor and medicinal properties.
