Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
I've always loved the flavors and aromas of fresh herbs. Growing my own has become a passion of mine–it's surprisingly easy and incredibly rewarding! Let me show you how to create your own fragrant and delicious herb garden, even if you're a beginner.
Fresh herbs add a burst of flavor and fragrance to any dish. Growing your own in pots lets you enjoy those delicious aromas anytime! Here are some of the amazing benefits of a potted herb garden, plus tips to help you thrive:
Growing herbs in pots requires a few key considerations. Follow these essential steps to create your own thriving herb garden:
Having a potted herb garden brings joy and deliciousness, but consistent care ensures your plants thrive. Here's a breakdown of the key elements to keep your herbs happy and healthy:
Early intervention is key! The sooner you deal with pests or diseases in your herb garden, the better your chances of saving your plants. There are lots of easy and organic ways to tackle these problems. Try blasting pests like aphids or spider mites away with a strong spray of water – be sure to do this regularly. You can also mix up a gentle soapy solution with a few drops of dish soap, which works wonders on soft-bodied bugs. For a natural approach, consider introducing beneficial insects like ladybugs, which love to snack on aphids. No matter which method you choose, always test it on a tiny part of your herb first, just to be sure it doesn't cause any harm.
A few simple missteps can derail your potted herb garden. Below are ideas on how to sidestep the most frequent problems to keep your herbs thriving:
A: Basil, chives, mint, oregano, parsley, and thyme are fantastic starter herbs. They're relatively forgiving and offer delicious rewards.
A: Yes! Choose herbs with similar sunlight and water needs ("herbs with similar cultural requirements"). Herbs like oregano, rosemary, and thyme work well together.
A: The most common culprits are overwatering (check for root rot), insufficient sunlight (herbs need at least 6 hours), or using the wrong potting mix (use specific container mix, not garden soil).
A: Choose compact herb varieties, use pots of various sizes (small pots, clay pots), and maximize vertical space with hanging baskets or tiered planters. Mediterranean herbs like rosemary and lavender do particularly well in sunny, limited-space situations.
