Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
Want to learn how to grow some of the most fragrant flowers in the world? Freesia, with its vibrant colors and intoxicating scent, is a favorite among gardeners and flower enthusiasts alike. While these stunning blooms might seem delicate, they're surprisingly easy to cultivate, even for those who are new to gardening.
I’ll walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing the right varieties to planting, watering, and caring for your freesia. I’ll even share tips on how to harvest and enjoy these fragrant blooms indoors. Whether you're an experienced gardener or just starting out, growing freesia is a rewarding experience that will add beauty and fragrance to your life. So, let's get started on this fragrant journey together!
Freesias prefer moderate humidity levels. If the air is too dry, you can mist them occasionally or place them near a pebble tray filled with water.
The best time to plant freesia bulbs, also known as corms, depends on your climate. In USDA Hardiness Zone 9, plant the corms in fall for spring flowering. If you're planting outdoors in cooler zones, plant them in spring after the last frost for late summer flowers. Another option is to plant freesia bulbs in indoor pots for early summer flowering.
A: Yes, you can grow freesias in indoor pots for early summer flowering. Plant the bulbs from January to March, making sure they are about 2 inches deep with the pointed end facing up. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and place the pots in a sunny location.
A: Freesia plants grow best in cool, sunny locations with well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering. Fertilize them every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer. Freesias may be grown outdoors in full sun or partial shade.
A: To make freesia flowers last longer, cut the stem at an angle when the bottom flower is open. Place the stems in a clean vase with fresh water and flower food. Keep the vase in a cool location away from direct sunlight and drafts. Recut the stems every few days.
A: Freesias are tender perennials and may not survive the winter outdoors in colder climates. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 and above, they can typically stay in the ground. However, in colder zones, you can dig up the corms after the foliage dies back in the fall, store them indoors for winter, and replant them in spring.
