Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
Red fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum 'Rubrum'), often referred to as crimson fountain grass, is a showy and low-maintenance ornamental grass that adds striking color and texture to any garden. With its feathery, burgundy red foliage and arching growth habit, this cultivar is perfect for creating privacy screens, specimen plants, or accents in landscape design. It is considered a perennial in USDA zones 9 and higher but may behave as an annual in cooler climates.
I remember the first time I saw red fountain grass on TV a few years back; I was immediately captivated by how its deep red color stood out against the green backdrop. It added such a unique touch to the landscape, and I knew I had to learn more about this stunning plant.
In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore everything about the red fountain grass.
While red fountain grass is a popular choice, there are several other types of fountain grasses that you might consider for your garden:
This variety, also known as 'Little Bunny,' is a dwarf cultivar that adds texture with its compact size and soft, bottlebrush-like seed heads. Ideal for container planting or small gardens, it grows up to 12 inches tall, making it perfect for borders or mass plantings.
This cultivar features deep purple to burgundy foliage with reddish-brown plumes, adding dramatic flair to garden beds. It grows between 3 to 5 feet tall and thrives in full sunlight and well-drained soil.
Known for its soft pinkish-white plumes, this grass reaches 1 to 2 feet in height and is excellent for smaller gardens or containers. It prefers full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil.
This variety is characterized by its delicate pinkish-white plumes and compact size of 1 to 2 feet tall, suitable for container gardening or smaller spaces.
Red fountain grass is versatile and can be planted both indoors and outdoors. Here are some tips on when and where to plant it:
Red fountain grass has specific requirements to thrive and look its best. Here’s a comprehensive guide to its needs:
Red fountain grass thrives in well-draining, loamy soil. To create an ideal growing environment, ensure the soil is rich in organic matter, which enhances both drainage and fertility. If your soil is heavy clay or overly sandy, amend it by incorporating organic materials such as compost, aged manure, or leaf mold. This will help improve soil structure, increase water retention in sandy soils, and prevent waterlogging in clay soils. A well-balanced soil mix will support healthy root development and promote vigorous growth of the grass.
Red fountain grass thrives in warm climates and can withstand high temperatures, with a tolerance up to 100°F (38°C). It performs best in environments that maintain temperatures between 65°F (18°C) and 85°F (29°C). While this grass is quite resilient to heat, it prefers low to moderate humidity levels. High humidity can lead to increased risk of fungal diseases and may cause the grass to become less vigorous. Ensure good air circulation around the plant to help manage humidity and prevent issues. In areas with high humidity, consider providing some form of ventilation or planting in a spot with natural airflow to mitigate excessive moisture around the plant.
For optimal growth and vibrant coloration, plant red fountain grass in full sun, where it receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Full sun exposure enhances the intensity of the plant’s foliage color and promotes its characteristic lush, arching growth. While it can tolerate partial shade, the grass may not reach its full potential in terms of color and growth. In shaded conditions, the plant may become leggy and produce less impressive foliage. If growing in an area with limited sunlight, consider choosing a spot where it can receive the maximum available light to ensure the best results.
Here are some maintenance tips to keep the fountain grass looking its best:
Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to red fountain grass in early spring as new growth begins. Choose a fertilizer with equal proportions of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), such as a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 blend. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the correct application rate. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can lead to excessive, weak growth that may be more susceptible to pests and diseases. A well-balanced fertilizer promotes strong, healthy growth and vibrant foliage without compromising the plant’s structure.
Prune red fountain grass in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. Cut back the grass to about 4-6 inches above the ground. This practice removes dead and damaged foliage, stimulates fresh growth, and helps prevent the plant from becoming too dense or tangled. Proper pruning encourages a fuller, healthier plant and maintains its attractive, flowing appearance. Ensure that pruning shears or scissors are sharp and clean to make precise cuts and reduce the risk of disease.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark, wood chips, or straw, around the base of the red fountain grass. Mulching helps retain soil moisture by reducing evaporation, regulates soil temperature to protect roots from extreme heat or cold, and suppresses the growth of weeds that compete for nutrients and water. Replenish the mulch layer as needed to maintain the desired thickness and keep it from piling up against the plant’s base, which can cause rot.
For container-grown red fountain grass, repot every 2-3 years or when the plant shows signs of being root-bound, such as slowed growth or roots emerging from the drainage holes. Choose a high-quality potting mix that provides good drainage and aeration. Select a new pot that is 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one. Ensure the pot has adequate drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. Gently loosen the roots before placing the plant in the new container and water thoroughly after repotting to help settle the soil.
Red fountain grass cannot survive winter outdoors so it’s best to overwinter them indoors. Begin by digging up the plant before the first frost, ensuring to keep as much of the root ball intact as possible. Trim back the foliage to reduce water loss. Place the plant in a pot with well-draining soil and move it to a cool, bright location, such as a sunny window. Water sparingly to keep the soil slightly moist but not soggy, as the plant will be in a dormant state and requires less water. Avoid placing the pot in a location with drafts or extreme temperatures.
Red fountain grass can be prone to several pests and diseases. Here’s a rundown of common issues you might encounter:
A: Yes, red fountain grass can be grown in containers. Choose a large pot with good drainage and place it in a sunny location.
A: Yes, cut back the grass in late winter or early spring to about 4-6 inches above the ground to promote new growth.
A: The best time to divide red fountain grass is in early spring, just as new growth begins. This ensures that the plant has time to establish itself before the growing season.
A: Red fountain grass prefers full sun but can tolerate partial shade. However, it may not grow as vigorously or display its vibrant red color as well in shaded conditions.
