Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.
Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.
Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.
Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.
No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.
Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.
Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.
Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.
Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.
Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.
It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
Nasturtiums are delightful, easy-to-grow plants that bring vibrant colors and edible flowers to any garden. Whether you're growing nasturtiums in containers, hanging baskets, or directly in the garden, these bushy plants are popular for their low maintenance and peppery taste. I first discovered their charm when I planted a few seeds in a sunny corner of my backyard. Their cheerful blooms not only added a burst of orange and yellow but also attracted beneficial insects like ladybugs and bees, making my garden buzz with life. Their peppery leaves were a surprising addition to salads, adding a fresh kick that my family enjoyed. Let's dive into this comprehensive guide to learn more about planting, growing, and caring for these versatile plants.
Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) are known for their bright, trumpet-shaped flowers and attractive foliage. These plants are valued not only for their aesthetic appeal but also for their culinary and medicinal uses.
There are several types of nasturtiums, each with unique characteristics. Here are some popular varieties:
This variety is perfect for gardeners seeking compact plants bursting with vibrant, double flowers in shades of red, orange, and yellow. Jewel Mix nasturtiums are excellent for small gardens or containers, where their prolific blooms create a cheerful display throughout the growing season. They thrive in full sun and well-drained soil, making them a low-maintenance choice for gardeners looking to add intense color to their outdoor spaces.
Known for its striking deep crimson flowers against dark green foliage, Empress of India nasturtiums are ideal for gardeners aiming to create bold borders or focal points in their garden beds. This variety's compact growth habit makes it perfect for edging pathways or defining garden borders with a regal touch. They prefer rich, well-draining soil and benefit from regular watering to maintain their lush appearance and vibrant blooms.
Alaska nasturtiums feature variegated leaves paired with a mix of vibrant flower colors, making them a favorite among gardeners looking to add visual interest to containers or small garden spaces. Their versatile nature allows them to thrive in both sun and partial shade, making them suitable for various garden settings. Alaska nasturtiums are easy to grow from seed and offer a charming blend of foliage and flowers that brighten any garden corner or balcony.
Gardeners who enjoy vertical gardening or want to add a cascading element to their outdoor spaces will appreciate trailing nasturtiums. These varieties produce long vines that gracefully spill over edges of hanging baskets, trellises, or garden walls. Their abundant flowers and trailing growth habit create a lush, flowing effect that enhances the beauty of any garden setting. Trailing nasturtiums prefer full sun and well-drained soil, thriving with regular watering to support their vigorous growth and continuous flowering.
Perfect for small gardens, patio containers, or even window boxes, dwarf nasturtiums offer compact growth and vibrant blooms in a manageable size. These plants are well-suited for gardeners with limited space who still want to enjoy the beauty of nasturtiums. Dwarf varieties bloom prolifically in full sun and well-drained soil, requiring minimal care beyond regular watering and occasional deadheading to encourage continuous flowering throughout the season.
Nasturtiums are versatile and can be planted directly in the garden or started indoors. They prefer full sun but can tolerate partial shade, especially in hotter climates.
Sow seeds directly in the garden after the last frost date. In warmer climates, you can start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost.
Choose a location with well-drained soil and plenty of sunlight. Nasturtiums do well in garden beds, borders, containers, and hanging baskets.
Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned gardener, growing nasturtiums is easy and adds a splash of color to your garden beds or containers. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you get started.
Choose a sunny to partially shaded location with well-draining soil that has a moderate fertility level, ideally with a pH between 6.0 to 7.5. If necessary, amend the soil with compost or organic matter to enhance drainage and fertility for optimal growth.
When planting nasturtium seeds, sow them approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the soil. For transplanting seedlings, ensure they are set at the same depth they were growing in their nursery containers to facilitate healthy root development.
Space nasturtium seeds or seedlings about 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) apart. This spacing provides enough room for the plants to spread and grow without overcrowding, promoting better airflow and reducing the risk of disease.
For climbing varieties, provide support such as trellises or stakes to help them grow upright. Trailing varieties can benefit from being planted near edges or allowed to spill over garden beds or containers for a cascading effect.
Growing nasturtiums is quite straightforward and they're known for their bright, cheerful flowers and edible leaves. Here are the basic requirements for growing nasturtiums:
Nasturtiums prefer well-drained, poor to average soil. They thrive in soil that is not overly fertile, as too much nitrogen can lead to excessive foliage growth instead of flowers. Avoid heavy fertilization.
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during dry periods. Water at the base of the plant to prevent fungal diseases. Ensure the soil doesn't dry out completely between watering sessions.
Nasturtiums grow best in temperatures between 55°F and 75°F (13°C to 24°C). They can tolerate higher temperatures, but in hotter climates, they may need more frequent watering to thrive. Moderate humidity levels are generally suitable.
Nasturtiums thrive in full sun to partial shade. In hot climates, providing some afternoon shade can prevent the leaves from scorching. Ensure they receive at least 4-6 hours of sunlight daily for optimal growth and flowering.
Maintaining nasturtiums is relatively easy once they are established. Here are some maintenance tips to keep your nasturtiums healthy and thriving:
Nasturtiums prefer nutrient-poor soil. Avoid using fertilizer, as excessive nutrients can result in lush foliage at the expense of flowers. This plant thrives in less fertile conditions, producing more vibrant blooms.
To encourage continuous blooming, regularly deadhead spent flowers by pinching or cutting them off at the base of the stem. Additionally, trim back overgrown plants as needed to maintain their shape and size throughout the growing season.
Apply a light layer of organic mulch around nasturtium plants to help retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weed growth. However, avoid heavy mulching directly around the stems, as it can lead to moisture retention and potential root rot issues.
When growing nasturtiums in containers, use a well-draining potting mix to prevent waterlogging. Ensure the container has adequate drainage holes. Repot the plants into larger containers if they outgrow their current pots or if root-bound, typically every 1-2 years.
If starting nasturtiums indoors, transplant seedlings outdoors after the danger of frost has passed, typically in spring. Choose a location with full sun or partial shade. Space seedlings 10-12 inches apart to allow for optimal air circulation and growth.
In regions with frost, treat nasturtiums as annuals, as they are sensitive to freezing temperatures. Alternatively, in warmer climates, they can survive the winter months if provided with some frost protection, such as covering them with a cloth during cold spells or planting them in a sheltered location.
Nasturtiums are relatively pest-resistant but can occasionally suffer from the following:
Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that suck sap from leaves and stems. They can be controlled by using insecticidal soap or by spraying with water to wash them off. Encouraging natural predators like ladybugs or lacewings can also help manage aphid populations.
Caterpillars are larvae of butterflies and moths that can chew on nasturtium leaves, causing visible damage. They can be managed by handpicking when spotted. For severe infestations, organic insecticides such as neem oil or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) can be used.
Leaf miners are larvae that live and feed within leaf tissue, creating tunnels or mines. To control leaf miners, promptly remove and destroy affected leaves. Pruning away heavily infested areas and improving overall plant health can reduce susceptibility.
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that manifests as white powdery spots on nasturtium leaves. It thrives in humid conditions with poor air circulation. Control measures include improving air circulation around plants by proper spacing, avoiding overhead watering, and applying fungicidal sprays if necessary. Sprays should be applied early in the morning or late in the evening for best effectiveness.
Practicing these prevention and treatment methods, you can maintain healthier nasturtium plants and address issues promptly to minimize damage.
Regularly inspecting nasturtium plants is crucial for early detection of pests and diseases. Maintain good garden hygiene by removing debris and weeds that can harbor pests. Companion planting with plants that repel pests, such as marigolds or garlic, can help deter insect infestations naturally.
If issues arise despite preventive measures, consider using organic treatments such as neem oil or insecticidal soap to manage pests like aphids or caterpillars effectively. Handpick and remove infected plant parts promptly to prevent the spread of diseases like powdery mildew. Proper disposal of infected plant material helps reduce the likelihood of further outbreaks.
Nasturtium flowers, leaves, and seeds are all edible and can be harvested for culinary use.
Flowers: When harvesting nasturtium flowers, choose ones that are fully open and free from damage or discoloration. This ensures they are at their peak flavor and appearance. Nasturtium flowers have a peppery taste that complements salads, sandwiches, and various dishes. They can also be used creatively as decorative garnishes or infused into vinegars for added flavor. Harvest flowers as needed to keep plants producing new blooms throughout the season.
Leaves: For nasturtium leaves, opt for young and tender ones when harvesting for salads. These leaves offer a mild, peppery flavor similar to arugula, making them ideal for fresh dishes. Older leaves can be harvested as well, although their flavor intensifies, making them better suited for cooking. Use nasturtium leaves chopped in salads, blended into pesto, added to soups for a peppery kick, or incorporated into stir-fries for a unique taste profile.
Seeds: Harvest nasturtium seeds once the flowers have faded and the seed pods have matured. Look for pods that are dry and turning brown, indicating that the seeds inside are fully developed. Allow these pods to dry further in a warm, dry location for about a week. Once dried, carefully remove the seeds from the pods and store them in a cool, dark place. Nasturtium seeds can be pickled as a substitute for capers or saved for planting in the next growing season. Properly dried seeds ensure viability and successful germination when planted.
A: Yes, nasturtium flowers have a peppery taste and can be used in salads or as a garnish.
A: Trailing nasturtium varieties are ideal for hanging baskets. Plant them in hanging containers with well-drained soil and full sun exposure.
A: Nasturtiums are beneficial for companion planting with vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers, as they can deter pests like aphids.
A: Yes, you can start nasturtium seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the danger of frost has passed.
A: Yes, trailing varieties of nasturtiums are ideal for hanging baskets. They create a beautiful cascading effect with their vibrant flowers and foliage.
