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Licorice Plant 101: Growing and Caring for Helichrysum petiolare

Published on
February 28, 2025
Licorice Plant 101: Growing and Caring for Helichrysum petiolare
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DIY Weed Killers Q&A

Frequently Asked Questions:

1. Will vinegar kill all weeds?

Vinegar is effective at killing most young, tender, and shallow-rooted weeds such as chickweed or small annual weeds. The acetic acid in vinegar dries out the plant’s leaves and stems, causing them to wither. However, it’s less effective against deep-rooted or perennial weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, or thistles. These tougher weeds may require repeated applications, higher-strength vinegar, or a combination of vinegar spray with manual removal to fully eliminate them.

2. Can DIY weed killers harm grass and plants?

Yes. DIY weed killers such as vinegar, salt, and boiling water are non-selective, meaning they don’t distinguish between weeds, grass, or flowers. If they come in direct contact with your lawn, vegetable plants, or ornamental flowers, they can cause scorching, yellowing, or even death. To avoid harming desirable plants, apply these solutions carefully and directly on weeds, ideally with a spray bottle or by shielding nearby plants with cardboard or plastic during application.

3. Is homemade weed killer safe for pets?

Generally, yes—when used properly. Unlike chemical herbicides, homemade options like vinegar, salt, or boiling water don’t leave behind long-lasting toxic residues. Pets and children can safely return to treated areas once the vinegar has fully dried or the boiling water has cooled. However, concentrated vinegar (horticultural vinegar with higher acidity) can cause skin or paw irritation if touched while wet, so always let the treated area settle before allowing pets back.

4. How long does it take for natural weed killers to work?

Natural weed killers typically show visible effects within 24 hours. Weeds may start to wilt, turn brown, or dry up soon after application, especially in hot, sunny, and dry conditions, which speed up the process. For tougher weeds or cloudy weather, results may take longer, and you may need to reapply for complete control. Keep in mind that these methods work best on small or actively growing weeds, not large established ones.

5. Are these solutions permanent?

No, most DIY weed killers are not a permanent fix. While they kill the parts of the weed above the soil, many weeds—especially perennials—can regrow from seeds or deep root systems. To maintain a weed-free garden, combine these natural treatments with preventive strategies such as mulching, pulling weeds before they seed, applying corn gluten meal to block germination, or maintaining dense, healthy plant cover to crowd out weeds naturally.

Planting and Growing Banana Trees Q&A

Q: Can I grow a banana tree indoors?

Yes, you can grow a banana tree indoors, especially if you choose dwarf varieties such as the Dwarf Cavendish. These smaller banana plants can thrive in large pots, provided they receive plenty of sunlight—ideally near a south-facing window—or supplemental grow lights. Indoor banana plants also benefit from high humidity, so regular misting or the use of a humidifier can help them flourish. With proper care, indoor banana trees can produce lush tropical foliage and, in some cases, even fruit.

Q: Do banana plants grow from seeds?

Most edible banana varieties, such as Cavendish, are seedless and cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, they reproduce through suckers (also called pups) that grow around the base of the plant. However, wild banana species do produce large, hard seeds that can be germinated. These seed-grown bananas are not commonly cultivated for eating, as their fruit is often filled with seeds and lacks the sweetness of cultivated varieties.

Q: How long does it take for bananas to fruit?

Banana plants typically take between 9 to 15 months from planting to produce fruit, although the exact time depends on the variety, climate, and growing conditions. They grow fastest in consistently warm temperatures with high humidity and fertile soil. Once the flower stalk emerges, it usually takes another 2 to 6 months for the bananas to mature and be ready for harvest.

Q: Do banana trees die after producing fruit?

Yes, the main stem of a banana plant, often called the "mother plant," dies after it produces fruit. However, the plant doesn’t completely die out—it produces new shoots or suckers at the base. These suckers grow into new plants, continuing the cycle. Gardeners often select the healthiest suckers to grow into the next generation of fruit-bearing plants, ensuring a continuous supply of bananas.

Q: Can bananas survive winter?

Banana plants are tropical and do not tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. In regions with cold winters, they must either be grown in pots and brought indoors before the first frost or protected outdoors with heavy mulching and wrapping. Some cold-hardy ornamental varieties can withstand cooler temperatures, but fruit-bearing types generally need a warm, frost-free climate to survive and produce well.

How To Plant and Grow Sunflowers

Q: How long does it take for sunflowers to bloom?

It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.

Q: What are the best sunflowers to grow?

There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.

Q: How do I plant sunflower seeds?

To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.

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The ultimate Guide to growing and caring for licorice plant Helichrysum petiolare infographics
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Plant Attribute Details
Plant Name Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra)
Plant Type Perennial
Size 1 to 2 feet tall
Soil Type Well-draining, sandy or loamy soil
Soil pH Neutral to slightly alkaline (pH 6.0 to 8.0)
Bloom Time Summer
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10
Native Area Mediterranean region
Toxicity Level Non-toxic to humans and pets

Love the look of soft, silvery foliage? Meet the licorice plant! It's a low-maintenance charmer perfect for beginners and comes in several licorice plant varieties to suit your preference.

In this guide, we'll cover everything you need to know to successfully nurture this unique plant, from planting and propagation to dealing with common issues. Get ready to discover how easy it is to add a touch of whimsy to your garden or home with this versatile and captivating plant!

Best Types of Licorice Plants

a licorice plant in a pot indoors

1. Glycyrrhiza glabra (English)

It is a tall perennial herb, growing up to 5 feet, with compound leaves and small blue to violet flowers. Its thick, woody roots are known for their sweet flavor. It is beginner-friendly because it thrives in full sun and well-draining, sandy soil, making it relatively low-maintenance and adaptable to various soil types.

2. Glycyrrhiza uralensis (Chinese)

This one's a perennial herb reaching about 3 to 4 feet in height, features compound leaves and pale blue to white flowers. This plant is well-suited for beginners because it can grow fully exposed to sunlight to partial shade and adapts well to loamy, well-drained soil, requiring minimal care once established.

3. Glycyrrhiza echinata (American)

It grows up to 3 feet tall and has clusters of small, pale purple flowers with pinnate leaves. It's great for beginners due to its ability to thrive in various soil types, including sandy and loamy, and its preference for full sun, which simplifies its care requirements.

4. Glycyrrhiza lepidota (American Wild)

This plant is a robust perennial, growing 2 to 4 feet with pale yellowish flowers and compound foliage. Beginners will find it easy to grow because it tolerates a wide range of soil types, including clay and sandy, and does well in full sun, making it a versatile and resilient plant.

5. Glycyrrhiza inflata (Chinese Inflated)

Characterized by its unique inflated seed pods, this one grows up to 4 feet tall with purple flowers. It is suitable for beginners because it flourishes in bright, direct sunlight and well-draining soil, requiring little maintenance once established, and its distinctive pods add visual interest to gardens.

6. Glycyrrhiza triphylla (Mediterranean)

Mediterranean Licorice reaches up to 3 feet in height, with trifoliate leaves and small, purple-blue flowers. This plant is beginner-friendly as it prefers full sun and well-draining, sandy soil, making it easy to grow and maintain with minimal watering needs once established.

7. Glycyrrhiza foetida (Stinking)

This plant, reaching up to 3 feet, has small white to pale purple blossoms and pinnate leaves, giving off a distinct odor. It is a good choice for beginners because it thrives in full sun and well-draining soil, and its strong scent helps deter pests naturally, reducing the need for pest control.

8. Glycyrrhiza aspera (Rough)

Rough Licorice reaches about 2 to 3 feet tall, with rough-textured leaves and small white to pale blue flowers. This plant is excellent for beginners due to its ability to thrive in bright, direct sunlight and well-draining ground, making it a hardy and low-maintenance option for various garden settings.

9. Glycyrrhiza korshinskyi (Korshinsky's)

Korshinsky's Licorice is a lesser-known species, growing up to 3 feet tall, with pinnate leaves and pale blue flowers. It is beginner-friendly because it adapts well to full sun and various well-drained ground types, making it a resilient and easy-to-care-for plant.

10. Glycyrrhiza uralensis (Ural)

Ural Licorice reaches up to 4 feet tall with pale blue to white blossoms and feathery foliage. It's suitable for beginners as it thrives in bright, direct sunlight to partial shade and well-draining soil, requiring minimal care once established and being quite hardy against varying conditions.

Steps to Plant Licorice Plants

hand planting a seed in soil closeup

From Seeds:

  • Begin by immersing the seeds in lukewarm liquid for a period of twelve hours. This aids in softening the exterior casing and encourages sprouting.
  • Fill compact vessels or trays with a well-draining mixture. Make sure the vessels have openings for drainage.
  • Position the seeds on the top of the mixture and thinly veil them with a layer (approximately 1/4 inch) of the mixture. Delicately press to ensure proper connection.
  • Dampen the mixture gently until it is uniformly moist but not saturated. Utilize a bottle with a spray mechanism to avoid shifting.
  • Position the vessels in a well-lit area or beneath illumination designed for plant growth.
  • Sustain a consistently moist but not soaked mixture. You can encase the vessels in a transparent film or a dome designed to maintain moisture, but ensure there is adequate airflow to prevent fungal growth.
  • Sprouting usually happens within 14-28 days. Exercise patience and maintain stable conditions.

From Seedlings:

  • Begin by immersing the kernels in lukewarm liquid for a period of twelve hours. This aids in softening the exterior casing and encourages sprouting.
  • Fill compact receptacles or trays with a well-draining mixture designed for starting kernels. Make sure the receptacles have openings for drainage.
  • Position the kernels on the top of the mixture and thinly veil them with a layer (approximately 1/4 inch) of the mixture. Delicately press to ensure proper connection between the kernels and the mixture.
  • Dampen the mixture gently until it is uniformly moist but not saturated. Utilize a bottle with a spray mechanism to avoid shifting the kernels.
  • Position the receptacles in a well-lit area or beneath illumination designed for cultivating growth. The kernels necessitate ample illumination for sprouting.
  • Sustain a consistently moist but not soaked mixture. You can encase the receptacles in a transparent film or a dome designed to maintain moisture, but ensure there is adequate airflow to prevent fungal growth.
  • The kernels usually sprout within 14-28 days. Exercise patience and maintain stable conditions.

Requirements for Growing Licorice

closeup of licorice leaves that are a bit moist. by the windowsill indoors

Soil

These plants thrive in well-draining soil. It's essential to ensure that not too much water is retained, as this can lead to root rot. A mix that includes sand or perlite can help improve drainage. Make sure that the pH is between 6.0 and 7.5 for best results.

Water

While they are relatively drought-resistant, they do require regular watering, especially during the first few days. Once established, you can reduce the frequency, allowing for sufficient drying in between watering sessions.

Temperature and Humidity

These plants prefer warmer temperatures (65-85°F) and can tolerate dry conditions. They do best in mild climates and can handle a bit of neglect when it comes to humidity.

Sunlight

They love sunlight! Place them in a spot where they can receive plenty of direct sunlight throughout the day (approximately 6 to 8 hours). If they're indoors, a sunny window will work well.

Location

These plants are versatile and can thrive in various settings. They look great in hanging baskets, containers, or even as ground cover in garden beds. Their trailing stems make them an excellent choice for adding elegance to any area.

Maintenance Tips

closeup of or seedlings in soil

Fertilizer

Licorice plants generally don't need heavy feeding. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer once in the spring to give them a good start. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can lead to leggy growth.

Pruning

Pruning is essential to maintain the shape and encourage healthy growth. Trim back any leggy or overgrown stems to keep the plant looking tidy. Pruning also helps promote fuller growth.

Mulching

Adding a layer of mulch around the base helps retain moisture and keep the ground temperature stable. Organic mulch, such as bark or compost, works well and also adds nutrients to the ground as it decomposes.

Potting and Repotting

If you're using containers, choose a pot that is large enough to accommodate their roots. Repot them every couple of years or when you notice the plant becoming root-bound. When repotting, use fresh potting mix to provide new nutrients.

Overwintering

In colder regions, licorice plants may not survive the winter outdoors. If you live in a colder climate, consider bringing your potted plants indoors before the first frost. Keep them in a cool, bright location and reduce watering to keep them healthy through the winter months.

Common Pests and Diseases

a dried up plant in a pot indoors

Pests

  • Aphids: These small, sap-sucking insects can cause foliage to curl and become distorted. To get rid of aphids, spray the plant with a mixture of diluted down dish soap. Ladybugs, a natural predator of aphids, can also be introduced to control the population.
  • Spider Mites: These tiny pests are hard to see but can cause foliage to look speckled or bronzed. If you suspect spider mites, spray the plant with moisture to knock them off and increase humidity around the plant. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can also be effective.
  • Whiteflies: These small insects can cause yellowing foliage and a sticky substance on the plant. Use yellow sticky traps to capture whiteflies and spray the plant with insecticidal soap if the infestation is severe.

Diseases

  • Root Rot: This occurs when the ground is too wet and poorly draining, leading to the roots rotting. To prevent root rot, make sure the plant is in well-draining ground and avoid overwatering. If you notice yellowing parts and a rotten smell from the ground, remove the affected plant, trim off the rotten roots, and replant in fresh, dry ground.
  • Powdery Mildew: This fungal disease appears as a powdery coating. To treat powdery mildew, remove any affected parts and improve air circulation around the plant. A solution of diluted baking soda can also manage the spread.

How to Harvest Licorice

closeup of harvested licorice

Gathering licorice is simple and rewarding. Wait until your licorice plants are well-established, typically in their second year of development. Choose a sunny day to gather. Carefully dig around the base of the plant to uncover the roots, while being careful not to damage them. Once you've exposed the roots, cut off sections as needed, leaving some roots intact so the plant can continue to thrive. Clean the gathered roots thoroughly and let them dry before use. This method ensures you get the most out of your licorice plants while allowing them to thrive year after year.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How often should I water my licorice?

A: Licorice does best when the ground is allowed to become slightly arid between moisture applications. In the early stages of development, keep the ground consistently moist. Once established, dampen less frequently, providing a deep soaking when the top inch of ground feels arid to the touch. It is also helpful to note that the licorice plant benefits from well-draining soil, adequate sunlight, and occasional pruning to maintain its shape and encourage new growth.

Q: What type of soil is best for licorice?

A: Licorice thrives in well-draining ground with good aeration. A sandy or loamy mix with organic matter works well. Avoid heavy clay ground that retains too much moisture, as they can lead to root problems.

Q: Can licorice be placed indoors?

A: Yes, it can be successfully nurtured indoors as long as it receives plenty of light. Place it near a bright window where it can get at least six hours of sunlight each day. Use a well-draining potting mix and ensure the container has drainage holes to prevent moisture from accumulating.

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